Ladakh - India`s forgotten kingdom
By Joanne Lane Stanzin Dorjey is 15 years old and looks much like any other boy his
age. But few fifteen year old boys live in huge stone monasteries tending butter lamps by the shrines of lamas and statues of the Buddha. Except perhaps in Buddhist states like Ladakh in India`s north west corner of Kashmir. Ladakh is one of the most isolated regions in India and the landscape
is just as remote - a rainless climate has kept the region barren and
almost devoid of vegetation and it has thus been nicknamed a moonscape.
But despite its raw beauty, Ladakh has been inhabited for centuries by
nomadic tribes. It has also been called The Last Shangri La (the last
paradise) and Little Tibet as it was originally a province of that
kingdom. Today Ladakh is a mixture of Tibetans, Ladakhi`s, Kashmiri`s and
Indians but is predominantly Buddhist. Strange gompas (monasteries) cling to
cliff faces, seemingly impenetrable and unapproachable. Ancient rock
palaces blend into the rocks themselves and the austere snow-capped
himalayas surround the region isolating it from the outside world. Life in Ladakh can be as lonely as its surrounds. But here Stanzin
Dorjey`s lifestyle is not unusual. Many boys are sent to live in
monasteries and often live a devoted and quiet existence. Stanzin`s mother lives
in the nearby town but apart from her and the other older monk who
lives with him in the monastery, the only companions Stanzin has are the
religious statues, the whisperings in the Buddhist prayer flags that
adorn the temple rooftops and surrounding hills, and the tourists that pass
through. A romantic existence perhaps but surely lonely and so Stanzin`s daily
routine of 5am prayer, followed by studies, is interspersed with as much
talk with tourists as he can fit in. The Shey Palace he calls home was
built over 550 years ago and houses the largest golden statue of the
Buddha in Ladakh at 12 metres tall, erected in the 17th century. From
view points in the palace you can see the fertile plains below filled with
hundreds of chortens. The Shey Palace was the old summer palace of the Ladakh Kings and is
15kms from the capital Leh. But it takes almost an hour to reach it on
the tiny over crowded buses that service the region. These buses leave
regularly from just outside Leh town, but as with most bus stands in
India, finding the right bus can be an adventure in itself. Make sure you
get a seat as it is impossible for westerners to stand as the ceilings
are low. There are many places like Shey around Ladakh. Only a short walk away
is the Tikse Gompa across the valley through the fields and villages. On
walks like these the locals friendliness becomes obvious and even if
you only learn one word while you are there, you will find the greeting
"jullay" indispensable. The Tikse monastery is 500 years old and is built high up on the
hillside, which is also dotted with the monks houses and chapels. Just before
you enter the monastery is a small shop where the monks will come to
lie down and talk in between serving tourists. A sitting area allows you
to recover from the climb and gaze out on the valley below. Proceeds
from the shop go to improvements and renovations like the recent
construction of an enormous 15m high seated Buddha. From Tikse it is a short bus ride back to Leh. But for a different
adventure skip the bus and start walking back. Villagers drive their cows
home by the roadside and bow their three cornered hats in greeting to
you and the young children call "jullay" as they pass. And if you
suddenly feel like you are in a time warp and out of place with your expensive
camera, jeans and t-shirt next to an older woman with a prayer wheel,
prayer beads and long grey plaited hair then flag down a truck and it`s
a short drive back to Leh civilisation. Here you can treat yourself to the many Tibetan restaurants with momos,
thukpas and other delicious treats. There are also German bakeries and
garden cafes. The main part of Leh is one street, with the cheaper
Tibetan markets down the far end. The Kashmiri sellers are fun to visit and
bargain with good humour over carpets, cushion covers and trinkets. The mix of religions and cultures here is obvious but there are no
clashes. At lunch time the Kashmiri`s close their business` to answer the
Muslim call to prayer while the Buddhist temple streams forth prayer
music simultaneously. If you`ve had your fill of momo`s and bargaining by this time you will
be ready to visit the Leh Palace which sits above the old town, almost
blending into the stony hills around its crumbling walls. It was built
in the 16th century at the same time as the famed Potala of Lhasa which
it resembles. The Leh Palace is the old palace of the Kings of Ladakh before the
kingdom grew weaker and fragmented and was eventually conquered by Kashmir.
In the 1830s Sikh rule over Jammu and Kashmir was established and
Ladakh was invaded. There is still evidence of this today. The palace was
fired on and the wing was destroyed. The royal family was dethroned and
now live in their palace in Stok. But a visit to the palace is well worth it and the trek up to it is an
experience in itself. It takes you through the old town which is like
wandering through an abandoned city. Crumbling stone walls of flat
roofed houses line the streets creating confusing mazes out of the streets.
But it is still full of life. Women pump water from taps in the middle
of the street, flea-ridden mangy dogs rest in the shade and men
carrying grain wander up through the maze. At the palace is a friendly monk who holds a key to the unused prayer
room which houses 600 year old texts written on rice paper. He takes a
keen interest in guide books and can tell you the locations of the
pictures even though the details are written below in English. The view
where he seats himself is superb and from here you can view the town’s
activities and see out into the rocky moonscape landscape beneath the
mountains. There are few places in the world you can call hidden kingdoms, but
Ladakh may just well be one of them. It has had little exposure to the
outside world due to its geographical and political exclusion. But those
tourists brave enough to risk the potentially unstable political climate
are treated to one of the most spectacular places on earth. It truly
could be the Last Shangri La. OTHER PLACES TO VISIT
There are numerous monasteries and temples to visit throughout Ladakh.
Some of the more popular include the Alchi and Lekir Gompas and the
Stok Palace. At Hemis a colourful festival is held every June. Few places
require permits and you can move with relative freedom around the
region.
Whatever you do make sure you take the initial days rest recommended at
the airport and by most hoteliers. The air is thin at 11,000 feet and
over activity the first day will make for further inconvenience. There
are few less pleasant ways you could spend your first day then relaxing
in a Leh hotel watching the sun change colour over the mountains. WHEN TO VISIT
The best time to visit Ladakh is in the Indian summer in June-July.
Monsoon does not reach the temperate climate of Ladakh during this period
and the weather is sunny and pleasant. HOW TO GET THERE
There are no international flights into Srinigar or Leh. (Please fill
in details of your airlines here to Delhi and Bombay). Flights for Leh leave from Chandighar, which can be reached from Delhi
by train and bus, and Delhi itself twice a week. These are short
flights of no more than one hour, depending on the weather conditions, and
provide beautiful views of the himalayas.
If you want to reach Srinigar from Leh you have several options. A
short one hour flight leaves every Monday from the Leh airport, buses leave
regularly but it is a two day drive on poor mountain roads, or taxis
can be hired for a more pricey sum - make sure you bargain - but it still
takes almost two days. The road is often unsafe to travel depending on
the current political and military environment. The road takes you
through Kargil which suffered the worst of the recent border skirmishes
between India and Pakistan in 1999. |
