Border ceremony
By Joanne Lane Indian Punjabis are known as hard workers, fierce fighters and very religious so when a 6'6" guard beckons to me I do as I'm instructed. I felt guilty as I jumped off the fence where I had been perching above the crowd to gain a vantage point. I humbly waited to be told off but instead he took me across the road and motioned where I was to stand. From here I had a clear view of the guard ceremony at the Indian/Pakistan border Wagah. This is an hours drive outside Amritsar, the holy centre of the Sikh religion in India's wealthy north west state of Punjab. The Wagah border is the only road crossing between the two countries and has just recently been opened up to a bus service. Relations between the two countries are never friendly but this event is harmless. It takes place every evening just before sunset and is done with much national pride, fervour and decorum on both sides. The gallant Punjabi Indian border guards march past in exaggerated high prancing steps, dressed in full regalia with strange red plumed hats. The crowd falls in behind them and I get lost in the sea of patriotism. Someone starts singing "Jana gana mana", the Indian national anthem and the crowd picks it up. There is cheering and shouting. We are swept towards the border gate, everyone jostling for a better position. But it is a pretty well mannered crowd by Indian standards and they stop just short of the barrier. Again the same guard spots me at the back of the crowd and motions for me to be brought forward so I can see. When the Pakistani guards come out they are booed and the anthem picks up again. When the guards move off once more the crowd runs after them. By this time I am completely caught up in the fervour and excitedly pose for photos with everyone else. My guard stands next to me, stoney faced as ever, but looks helpfully towards my friend who takes our picture. A few minutes later I am heading back to Amritsar with all the deflated feeling of post concert blues. Punjabi's are proud of who they are and they have much to be proud of. Not only are their soldiers considered the best in India, but the Punjab is the most prosperous state in India, supplying most of the countries rice and wheat requirements. This is a far cry from what existed here during Partition fifty years ago. When the British divided territories between India and Pakistan the Punjab population was cut into two regions. One for the Muslims and the other for the Sikhs and Hindus. Millions of people fled either east or west depending on their religion, and thousands were killed in the transit. But the Punjabis have recovered well since then and it is mainly due to their hard work. They now enjoy the rewards of their labours. Punjabi's are common tourists throughout India and large family groups are always seen travelling around in expensive four wheel drives. But for some reason they bear the brunt of the nations jokes, just like the Irish do. Perhaps it is their beards and the long hair they wind up in turbans, but to me they simply looked regal. Amritsar, where I am now headed, is not the capital of the Punjab as it was considered too close to the Pakistan border to be safe. It was probably just as well. Amritsar is the religious centre for Sikhs, and the most holy site, the Golden Temple, is based here. So it was probably good forethought to keep the fervour of religion and politics separate. The Golden Temple is in the centre of the old part of Amritsar and is free of charge for anyone to visit. The temple is surrounded by the pool Amrit Sarovar (Pool of Nectar) which also gives the town its name. It is well worth a visit. Actually it's worth several visits if you have time to revisit throughout the day and see it in different lights. Make sure you adhere to the rules to cover your head and remove your shoes before entering the temple compound. You can't just carry your shoes or store them in your bag. For all the friendliness we experienced here, I was not to take their instructions lightly. There are free compartments to store your shoes in outside and English speaking guides are available. The temple precint has a peaceful atmosphere and you can walk around at your leisure. Birds swoop overhead while the broadcast voices of Sikh priests echo around the white marble walls of the courtyard. The priests sit inside the temple by microphones. You can view them in person if you cross the causeway to the temple. The temple is a beautiful two storey structure made of marble and it is decorated in gold with flowers and animal motifs similar to the Taj Mahal. Everyone is permitted inside the temple and pilgrims offer sweet doughy breads to attendants. You can even sit down and watch for awhile - there is no one to hurry you on. But apart from the priests and the birds there is little other sound in the compound as most people seem to walk around in awed silence. Robed and turbanned men wander around looking regal and majestic in their traditional dress. Brightly saried women in large family groups somehow manage to keep their children quiet and well mannered. And even the bathing in the holy waters takes place with dignity and seriousness. If you can tear your eyes away from the Golden Temple there is a museum upstairs in the clock tower. There is a large gallery of paintings depicting the story of the Sikhs but the scenes tend to be rather gruesome. If you wander around the Golden Temple long enough someone will come and ask you to take part of a meal that is offered to all visitors throughout the day. Be sure to take up the offer. Sikhs are renowned for their hospitality, in fact it is a foundation point of their religion. You will be seated on mats in lines and served limitless bread and chai (tea). There are also private rooms if you are someones guest. Here you may find yourself surrounded by large burly turbanned men. But have no fear even if you've just seen their violent history in the temple museum - they won't hurt you. Our scout assured us it was in their religious interest to look after all strangers. The hospitality does not stop here. There are left luggage points at the gates of the Golden Temple if you are only there one day. And you can stay overnight in one of the gudwara's for a small donation (minimum of 50rs or $2.50 AUS). These are run by Sikh volunteers and contain dorm rooms with bedding and toilets or you may get a double room with an attached bath. The bearded Sikh men on duty can supply hot water. There are other things to see in Amritsar other than the Golden Temple, although a whole day could be spent watching the colour changes over the turrets throughout the day. A short walk away is Jallianwala Bagh, a park that commemorates the site where 2000 Indians were killed or wounded by the British in 1919. The site has been transformed into a garden for tourists but you can still see the holes made by bullets and there are signs indicating where the events took place. The Hindu Durgiana Temple is close by and is similar in appearance to the Golden Temple. There are other small parks and temples to visit around the city, but if its evening by now its worth another trip back to the Golden Temple to watch the sun set and the building glow golden, as its name suggests, in the dusky light. HOW TO GET THERE
There are no international flights into Amritsar but you can get flights from Delhi (US$90) four times weekly. There is a cheap bus journey from Delhi of 10 hours but if you can afford to spend a little more the most comfortable way to get there is by train. This is only a 5.5 hour journey from Delhi (make sure you get the express). The Wagha border is about a 45 minute drive from Amritsar. Leave yourself plenty of time to bargain with the taxi and rickshaw drivers for the best price. BOOK HERE |
