10 most beautiful places in Goa
by Joanne Lane Why is Goa so steamy? It`s not just because it`s in India that the southern former Portuguese state of Goa is so hot for tourism. However it is true a good breeze is needed to ruffle the coconut palms along the endless strips of sand. Goa has long been on the British holiday maker`s map for an affordable but exotic holiday, good weather, fine hospitality and great food. About 20,000 British tourists visit Goa each year and about 75 percent of the charter flights that land in Goa each week between October and March are full of British holidaymakers. With the large tourist numbers the number of quality accommodation options has also increased. Goa`s old Portuguese villas, forts, castles and even art galleries have become elegant and luxurious holiday stops with doors open for discerning holidaymakers. If you`re planning a journey to Goa this winter you must consider one of these fabulous locations. Joanne Lane is a freelance writer and visited these places while working on the Alastair Sawday`s Special Places to Stay Guide: India, first edition. The second edition of the book is due out late next year. See www.specialplacestostay.com
1. Nilaya Hermitage
This wonderful five-star has avoided any of the usual starched formality associated with hotels of this calibre. It was designed by the famed Goan architect Dean D`Cruz and German-born designer Claudia Derain took care of the interiors with vibrant colours, mosaic tiled bathrooms, bowls of floating flowers, a curving central pool and rooms using cosmic elements of the sun, moon, earth and fire. It`s classy but comfortable and from almost every corner you have views over paddy fields and hills or the sea which is a ten minute drive. The Nilaya is a short distance from most of the attractions of Goa. They offer full board rates only. Discounts are available in off seasons.
Bhati, Arpora
403 518, Goa
www.nilayahermitage.com
nilaya@sancharnet.in
+91 832 2276 793
+91 832 2276 792
rooms: 12 doubles
prices: full board only USD$310. Christmas and new year holidays can be as much as $480 2. Pousada Tauma
This is one of Goa`s top Ayurvedic retreats with a professional doctor who takes care of treatments on site. It is also another of local architect Dean de Cruz`s creations and uses Goan laterite stone for the 13 suites scattered around the pool. The rooms are divided into sections based on a theme utilising a feature of Goa. Hence there are the Coral, Shell and Aquamarine suites in the Sea Theme. And other areas that include the Fields, the Mountains and Castle. There are a few eclectic elements - a dentists chair now used as an armchair, shattered mosaic tiles in the bathrooms and a pool with cascading water. Neville Proenca and his wife Angelica are the charming hands on managers. Neville takes pride in everything, jogging in the evenings before turning his hand to the cooking at the Copper Bowl Restaurant. Try one of the special Ayurvedic meals served under frangipani flowers. Porba Vaddo, Calangute, North of Panjim
tel. + 91 832 227 9061
fax. +91 832 227 9064
www.pousada-tauma.com
neville@pousada-tauma.com
rooms: 13 suites
prices: doubles E200-495 3. Panjim Inn and Panjim Pousada
Located right in the heart of Panjim`s Latin Quarter and Portuguese past the Panjim Inn and Panjim Pousada have the same owner, the interesting Mr Ajit Sukhija who can often be found chatting to his guests on the balcony. Both have been renovated and restored to capture Panjim`s romantic past. The Inn is the first and only heritage hotel in Goa. It`s a 300 year old mansion with equally old furniture and four poster beds originally built for a Portuguese merchant. The Pousada is just down the road and houses an art gallery on the bottom floor. Choose it for more peace and quiet. E 212 31st January Road, Fontainhas, Panjim
tel. +91 832 2226 523
fax. +91 832 2228 136
www.panjiminn.com
panjimin@sancharnet.in
rooms: 22 doubles
prices: doubles Rs. 1055-1620 4. Bhakti Kutir
At the most southern end of Goa in the beach front town of Palolem the Bhakti Kutir enjoys a quiet corner with privacy and security. It is run by an engaging couple Ute and Panta who have designed eco friendly huts from local materials like rice straw, bamboo and mud. The toilets use an eco friendly compost system and have bucket baths to conserve water, and in the restaurant the vegetables are organic and home-grown and the fish is caught daily. Parents can utilise an informal school for their kids or the onsite baby sitters. There is also a tailor, handiwork shop, mud bath, steam bath, Ayurvedic massage, library and concert area. It`s informal and delightful and the staff are warm and welcoming. Book well ahead, this place is popular. 296 Patnem, Colomb, Canacona
tel. +91 832 2643 469
fax. +91 832 2645 211
www.bhaktikutir.com
bhaktikutir@yahoo.com
rooms: 22 cabanas
prices: 15-50 pounds,
doubles Rs. 350-3000 depending on the season. $7.60-65 5. Hotel Bougainville / Granpa`s Inn
Located a few minutes out of Anjuna this is the perfect place for those wanting to experience the heady, hippy delights of the town but with the option to leave them behind when they return to the Inn. The house was built 200 years ago as a Portuguese-styled Goan mansion but was recently modernised with spacious rooms, stained glass windows, courtyards, large gardens and friendly hosts - also modern. They - Lucindo and Bettina Farias - will happily share tales of their ancestor`s days in the town, and bring food from their farm to the table: chicken, cashews, avocadoes, almonds, fruits, spices and more. Gaumwadi, Anjuna
tel. +91 832 2273 270
fax. +91 832 2274 370
granpas@hotmail.com
rooms: 10 (8 doubles, 2 suites)
prices: doubles Rs. 850-1200, suites Rs. 1000-2000 or $22-44 for the suites. 6. Laguna Anjuna
This laid back hotel suits the Anjuna atmosphere perfectly with rustic cottages, a pool by which to laze the hours away, a wonderful bar and sociable restaurant. This is yet another of Dean de Cruz`s creations with use of laterite stone and thatched rooves, lots of wooden rafters, pillars, arches, domes and split level interiors. The cosy interiors were planned by Swiss designers Sonia and Thomas. Stylish but completely unpretentious with a real mix of clientele. Soranto Vado, Anjuna
tel. +91 832 2274 305
fax. +91 832 2274 305
www.lagunaanjuna.com
info@lagunaanjuna.com
rooms: 24 (17 cottages for 2, 7 cottages for 4)
prices: doubles USD $50-180 7. Fort Tiracol
This 16th century fort is a national monument and opened as a hotel only in 2003 with rather austere and elegant settings - wrought iron furniture, bright yellow walls, splendid views from the balconies and even an old chapel inside the compound. The owner`s minimalist approach to furnishings have aided the fort-like atmosphere but it`s still comfortable and elegant. Guests share the fort with day trippers and on weekends Mass is held in the chapel. Tiracol is situated in the northern most corner of Goa and enjoys a fantastic panoramic view of the confluence of river and sea. The restaurant serves authentic Goan-Portuguese food. Fort Tiracol, Tiracol, Perney, Goa
tel. +91 832 2276 793
fax. +91 832 2276 792
nilaya@sancharnet.in
rooms: 7 (4 doubles, 2 suites, 1 family room for 4)
prices: Half board $110 8. Marbella Guesthouse
You`ll be constantly stepping over the sleeping bodies of cats and dogs at this villa but it seems to embody the concepts of the Marbella - peaceful, removed from the chaos of Candolim and homely. There`s more of a house party feel to this place with a French style live-in kitchen and plenty of chances to mingle with other guests. However there is also the opportunity to retire to rather lavish and romantic rooms. The owners Dian and Monika have made a serious effort to use authentic furniture, local ceramic tiles and flooring use age old stencils. Dian loves guitar and jamming with guests so bring along your music talents. Sinquerim-Candolim
tel. +91 832 2247 9551
fax. +91 832 2276 509
shrisai@goatelecom.com
rooms: 6 suites
prices: Rs. 1,300-2,300 9. Casa Palacio Siolim House
This beautiful 300 year old Portuguese manor house once belonged to a governor of Macau. It was discovered by a Delhi businessman who has transformed it lovingly into a boutique hotel. He renovated it properly using walls of shell and lime plaster and windowpanes of oyster shell. There`s a fantastic outdoor pool, a wonderful central courtyard dripping with bougainvillea and a fountain and a restaurant with the enormous portions - try the king prawns. The seven suites are named after 17th century trading ports like Surat, Cambay, Bahia and Damao. The suites have a fresh look with white walls and dark wooden or tiled floors, rosewood cupboards and beds hanging with drapes. For discounted rates try their "special auction" in the off season. Waddi, Siolim, Bardez
tel. +91 832 2272 138
fax. +91 832 2272 941
www.siolimhouse.com
info@siolimhouse.com
rooms: 7 suites
prices: Rs. 2000-3750 per person, reduced prices May-September 10. Goofy`s Countryside Hermitage
Godfrey "Goofy" Lawrence discovered these 20 acres of the hermitage when scouting for film locations. He has created a real nature retreat offering guests a real back to the earth stay with mud wall cottages, hessian curtains and terracotta lamps. Ask for the macchan or treetop house for additional privacy. You can also pick spices from a personalised garden outside every cottage for use in the evening meal and plant a sapling when you leave as a memory of your stay. Goofy is a hands on manager and always keen to plant a beer in your hand and engage you in conversation. He`s also a superb cook and will treat you to local seafood, farm produce and milk from his Jersey cows. He`s big on the environment - the water in the pool is ionized not chlorinated and he recycles everything from garbage to water. Sal Village, P.O Assonora, Bardez, North Goa, 403 503
tel. +91 832 2389 228
gats@sancharnet.in
goofyscounty@hotmail.com
rooms: 12 cottages for 2. 1 a/c
prices: Full board only Rs. 3600-4800 GETTING THERE
Monarch Airlines, www.monarch-airlines.com and Excel www.excelairways.com operate from Gatwick and Manchester and offer charter flights to Goa. Taxi services are available from the airports or arrange a pickup with your hotel. |
