Seductive St Louis
by Joanne Lane "A prostitute tried to pick me up last night," my friend crows to me first thing in the morning. "She asked where I was sleeeeeping!" I'm only half awake and manage to mumble "that's nice," before rolling over to doze some more. But St Louis, Senegal is already waking up outside and the women's cries to sell their wares, kids going to school, the bleating goats and the already sultry morning air don't allow much more shut-eye. I'd returned to our hotel earlier than my friend from our spot at Marco Jazz bar so I'd missed his prostitute. But I am admittedly curious so we return to the same bar in the evening to check the girls out. Night time in St Louis is not like anywhere else. The town only seems to really come to life once the heady sun goes down and the air finally gets cool enough to walk around and live a little. And the local population know how to do it. The bars fill, the music flows along with the beer and wine, the dance floors fill with rhythmic swaying bodies dancing the way only Africans know how and the working girls start their routines. It's too colourful to be seedy and the working girls are just part of town life. Besides the women are simply all curves, bosoms and buttocks and fascinating to watch, whether they are working or not. The braided hair, makeup, and figure-fitting clothes are mesmerising. It's impossible not to fall in love with St Louis. It is one of west Africa's most charming cities and if you've spent anytime in the desert regions of the Sahara it will appear as beautiful, sweet, tropical and seductive in comparison. Particularly if you've crossed overland from the desert barrenness of Mauritania in the north and finally discover a city in which fruit and vegetables are abundant and so brilliant they warrant photography, fantastic music oozes from the simplest of corner bars, the women dress in brilliant smocks, you can buy beer and alcohol and sit on the beach. St Louis was the first French settlement in Africa and actually the capital of the French African colonies in the early 19th Century until everything was moved to Dakar in 1958. It was founded in 1659 on a strategic island near the mouth of the River Senegal. By the 1790s it was a busy port and trade centre with a population of 10,000 including Africans, Europeans and many of mixed race. It now has faded era charms and elegance but much is still visible of the old European quarter. There are grand old houses, wrought-iron balconies and verandas and a strong French population running the supermarkets, bars and businesses. Even the names of the streets are an evocative reminder of times past. There's Repentigny, Anne-Marie Javouhey, Blanchot and Pierre Loti. Horse drawn carriages still operate for locals and tourists alike. Afternoon siesta is observed here, a trait that is more Mediterranean than French but European nonetheless. In any case it's essential as the streets are steaming by noon and only those who have to, or the more stupid tourists, venture out.
When we first crossed into Senegal from Mauritania an Algerian-French man and his Caribbean wife literally escorted us to our hotel worrying and fussing that we neither spoke French and every tout in the town would be after us. They were and so were the prostitutes. The Senegalese have been described as having an incredible will to connect with tourists but if you set your boundaries it's okay. It's important to recognise they are trying to make a living. They can walk the walk and know the talk to trick tourists but it can also be fun. They can show you the best food and music and their hand slapped greetings, colourful shirts and laid back attitude is engaging. St Louis is famed for its jazz music festival in May but on any night you can find le tres bon musique and suave tunes in the bars and discos. Marco Jazz is one of the famed spots on the isle and a place we made our own for many nights. French musicians had signed their names on the walls and pics of the world's best like Louis Armstrong and Miles Davis were pinned up along with newspaper articles about the bar. The seafood in St Louis is also superb. The golden crescent of beach is full of wooden fishing boats or pirogues by day and night and in nearby markets you can get the catch of the day. Fishing plays a vital role in the town and there's even a cemetery where the fisherman's graves are covered with nets. The children play soccer on the beach and the dogs and goats sleep or fossick in the rubbish ... in other words it's not the cleanest of beaches but it's pleasant. St Louis received a UNESCO World Heritage site award for its history in 2000. This includes the Point Faidherbe bridge that was originally built to cross the Danube and transferred here in 1897. The bridge is 507 metres long and has 7 arched spans, one was conceived to pivot around a fixed axis to let ships pass through. Other buildings with vintages of French history include the old Hotel de la Poste, the historic Governor's Palace and a church from 1828, the oldest in Senegal. OTHER THINGS TO DO
One of Africa's most famous bird parks is located within an hour of St Louis. If you spend anytime in the town all the touts will try to sell you a tour to Parc National des Oiseaux de Djoudj. Most of the options should include vehicle transport to and inside the park, park entry, food and a boat ride inside plus a French or Italian speaking guide. It may be hard to get an English guide so ask around or bargain for a cheaper price. Make sure you know what you are paying for. The park is 60km from St Louis and has 40,000 acres of water stretches. It is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world and a gathering place for migrating birds. A number of previously unknown bird species have recently been observed. It is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. For lots more information on St Louis this website www.saintlouisdusenegal.com has information in both French and English. St Louis consists of 3 parts: the Sor (mainland), the Island (with tons of bars, nightclubs and restaurants), and the Barbarie, where a lot of nice and relatively inexpensive hotels are located on the beach. ACCOMMODATION
For budget end accommodation try the Auberge de Jeunesse (Angle rue Bouet / Avenue Mermoz, Quartier Nord, in front of the consulate of France. Tel. +221 961-24-09, Fax. +221 961-56-73, pisdiallo@yahoo.fr, www.saintlouisdusenegal.com/auberge). Prices start from 8.6 Euros for a bed and include breakfast. The Harmattan Restaurant and Hotel (Tel 221 9618253, Fax 221 9616253, aubergeharmatant@yahoo.fr) is well located near the restaurant and bar section of town on the island near Marco Jazz and around the corner from L’Iguane Café which is located on rue Abdoulaye Seck. It has budget rooms starting from just 4000 CFA. The restaurant is more classy end eating and the bar fills up late in the evening. You'll find a few ex pats here. La Maison Rose (Rue Potin x Blaise Diagne, tel. +221 938 2222, fax. +221 938 2220, lamaisonrose@sentoo.sn) has more stylish accommodation in an old colonial building. There are 7 rooms and 2 suites all with terraces and balconies. Contact them for prices. GETTING THERE AND AWAY
On Wednesdays flights depart Roissy CDG (Paris, France) and arrive at the small airport of St Louis. Alternatively fly to Dakar international airport. There are taxis there that will take you direct to St-Louis or if it is too early go to the gare routière (about 3000 FCFA taxi fare) and get public transport to St Louis. The road trip from Dakar to St Louis is a minimum of four hours. Many travellers now arrive in St Louis overland by passing through Spain, Morocco and Mauritania. The trip has become more possible thanks to new roads through the Sahara in Mauritania. Allow two weeks for the journey from Paris. Go to www.saintlouisdusenegal.com for more information. BOOK HERE |
