Enshallah, southern Morocco
by Joanne Lane "Enshallah. You stay, you go, you buy, you sell, Enshallah". It's a common philosophy in southern Morocco which is not only highly commendable on a continent where many are without but also welcome to tourists tired from requests for handouts. Enshallah is commonly used for lots of things and really the only word you need to know. It means God willing. If God wills it seems to sum up the entire way of life here. And so they don't frety or worry or hurry. As they say themselves, people in a hurry are already in the cemetery. You could easily think you had stepped back into wild west times in Zagora in Morocco's far south. Not only are the desert towns dusty, with empty streets or donkeys moving through, the people are dressed in sweeping robes and hoods. The scenery features strange shaped mountains, deep cut gorges, exotic ruins, lush oasis, wind swept towns, red brick houses and a laid back atmosphere to boot. It's a real frontier territory that gives you goose bumps when you see signs that pronounce "52 days by camel Tombouctou", the legendary city in Mali to the south. There's a feeling that you've finally come somewhere that could be a bit more "out there". Zagora is in the southern region of Morocco where you can get your first glimpses of Saharan sand. To get here you follow the road from Ouarzazate through the wonderful Draa Valley until the road ends... in Zagora. It's probably of no surprise that Gladiator was filmed nearby at Ait Benhaddou near Ouarzazate for some of Maximo's fight scenes in north Africa. The Kingdom of Heaven featuring Orlando bloom also used locations in this area. On first appearances there is not a lot to Zagora. The 13th century town is simply a one road centre with a lot of dust and seemingly not much happening. But it's a very different atmosphere from the hustle and bustle of the Moroccan cities and even Marrakesh just to the north, considered one of the more African of the country's kasbahs. Zagora is a great base for excursions into the Sahara by land rover or camel. Many people come here to do camel trekking and you'll be approached about this soon after arrival. If you're interested make sure you bargain for a price. If you haven't done a camel safari before don't sign up for too much as it can leave you bum sore and weary very quickly. Alternatively get a lift out to the Tinfou dunes at sunset for your desert shots. The dunes are about 8km south of Tamegroute. Wednesdays in Zagora there is a local souk where you can try the diverse local dates. There are also plenty of carpet shops where locals will invite you in for tea and a chat as much as for a chance to bargain. The palm groves of Amazrou are across the bridge and nice to wander at evening. This village also offers accomodation. There is also a former Jewish kasbah where you can see thier tradition of silverwork maintained today by the Berbers. Across the valley from Zagora is the Jebel Zagora mountain and halfway up are the ruins of an 11th century Almoravid fortress. Tamegroute is a few kilometres south of Zagora. Amongst its attractions is the Koranic school that has been a centre of learning in the region since the 11th century. The library has a huge collection of religious texts. Some are written on gazelle skins and date from before the 13th century. The relaxed southern atmosphere can also give you a chance to try some of the local cuisine as well. The tangine (saffron flavoured meat and vegetables) and couscous dishes are amongst the best known. One of the biggest drawcards to this region is the Moussem of Moulay Abdelkader Jilali, a festival celebrated during the Mouloud in May. People in this region live more traditional lives and may not be used to dealing with tourists so leave your camera and money out of interactions with them. Women in particular that are clothed in traditional dress will not like being photographed. OTHER PLACES TO GO
Marrakesh is a days travel north. It is smaller in size and with far less touts and worrisome hustlers, it is cleaner and nicer. It has tanneries, old mosques and palaces but it's main feature is the central square. During the day there are orange juice stalls, snake charmers and herb sellers. At night there are acrobats, street entertainers and an open air food market. The air fills with smoke and the juices of roasting meats and the calls of chefs as they call you to their tables. HOSPITALITY AND SAFETY
Moroccans are very friendly and don't pass up dinner or tea invitations if there is no hint of an exchange of money. Keep your wits about you, but most likely the house will be in a maze of alleyways, and up an incredibly dilapidated staircases at the very back of a house. Hassles in Morocco are pretty low key if you adopt the local attiutude of "no hurry" or "enshallah" (God willing). Never agree to anything out of sheer frustration, make it clear to touts you will not pay them for services they wish to render, don't feel obliged to pay for entertainment shows that fail to impress, and it is not advisable to travel alone or without male company. WHEN TO GO AND WHERE TO STAY
Winter in Morocco is a wonderful respite from the rest of Europe with warm sunny days. In summer it is hot, particularly in the south, but the shadowy alleyways in the medinas are cool. Finding accommodation is half the trouble and half the fun. Shop around and be prepared to bargain. Check for hot water and clean bed sheets. Hotel Zagora is just outside town but will give incredible discounts in off season although food can be pricey. There are restaurants nearby. Pricey hotels also offer rooftop sleeping or tents for cheaper prices. GETTING THERE AND AWAY
There are international airports in Marrakesh, Agadir, Tangier, Fes, Laayoune, Oujda, Ouarzazate and Casablanca to name a few. Ferries leave daily from major ports in Spain like Algeciras, Almeria and Malaga to Tangier and Ceuta in Morocco. The most direct and commonly used is from Agleciras to Tangier. There are 20 crosings per day and fares cost about 4,000 pesetas one way (210 dirham). To get to Zagora from Marrakesh there is only bus per day to Ourzarzazite. From here you can hire a car, and you can also get a driver too for a small extra fee. GETTING AROUND
The quality and efficiency of transport services is due to the French whose legacy spread to their colonies. Trains are comfortable, reliable, safe and have overnight couchettes. The best way to get a train schedule is to go the station itself. The CTM buses have standard fares and are of reasonable quality. Keep Dr 5 spare for luggage charges. Cheaper non CTM buses or "chicken buses" can be just as nice. Check the photos in the cashiers window. Always bargain for grand and petit taxis. BOOK HERE |
