Getting Fessed in Morocco
By Joanne Lane In Fes, in central Morocco, I was offered ten camels to marry a local. All I had to do was cook and speak Arabic. When I explained I could do neither of these things, my suitor laughed and said I would soon learn. Proposals and numerous tea drinking experiences aside, after a week in Fes in central Morocco we developed a whole new vocabulary - "Special Friend Prices", "Big Welcome", the "Fes Food Court" but the best was the expression "Being Fessed". This is the best way to describe the famed Fes method of ripping off tourists. But it is often done so inocuously, good naturedly and even if you are on your guard, that it hardly halts your enjoyment of the city. Those that do it even warn you first, like the young man that called out to us when we first entered the inticate Fes medina, "Don't trust anyone in Fes. We play with your mind." Then proceeded to say he was a tour guide and could show us around for a small fee. Fes is the oldest of the Imperial cities in Morocco and is described as the centre of religion and culture in the country. It is famous for the gates and walls surrounding the city, its maze of alleyways and bazaars and its over crowding and chaotic markets. But perhaps for tourists it is best known for its annoying touts. Despite day to day "Fessing" like accepting invitations to visit schools in return for "gifts", our worst mistake was when we agreed to tour the medina for a "special friend price" with a family that had given us a free meal. We knew unofficial guides in Fes were forbidden to tour the medina but it was a cheaper option. Before the tour started we had to endure several hours in a tiny apartment we nicknamed "the black hole". It was full of kif smoke (marijuana) and endless visitors who all crammed into a tiny area that doubled as a kitchen, living room and bedroom. Two English hippies were there watching telletubbies on a TV they could not hear above blaring Arabic music in the room. This was only turned down to "give respect to God" when the call to prayer sounded. The continual noise did nothing to halt conversation which was screamed across the room in English so unintelligble even if you could hear. In the morning the "big uncle" showed us the tanneries and workshops of the medina, escorted by a police man who shepherded us through areas unofficial guides were not allowed. They told us stories of tourists they had ripped off and waited while we made purchases which they probably received commission from. The tanneries however are an experience and are best visited in the morning when the pits are awash with the colours used for dyeing. Men wade through the waters turning and collecting hides. After the tanneries the next stop is usually a leather shop where you are expected to leave a donation (for the workers) or purchase a product. The afternoon progressed back in the apartment with more food and promises of further tours. But every attempt we made to start one was brushed aside. We thought they were just being lazy but when we finally left after 7pm, not only was it so dark we could hardly see, but the streets were deserted and thus free of police. A tour of the medina thus unfolded down dark alleyways with cats crouched in shadowy corners jealously guarding rubbish piles, closed shops, empty mosques and even street fights between rival gangs. During the day these shops were crammed with goods like brightly coloured lamps, spices, cloth, wools etc with just enough space for the shop keeper to invite you in and sit down for delicious mint tea. Our guide Farhad threw stones at other kids and argued with anyone who warned him about getting caught. He also spoke a gibberish of half finished sentences about the history of Fes so we never knew if we had understood him. But we did know Fes was founded after the Arabs swept across North Africa and Spain around 800AD and still retains a strong Arab identity. The medina of Fes el-Bali (Old Fes) is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world but is not without its problems. Experts have warned the old city will slowly fall apart with its million plus inhabitants and so UNESCO is working to stop the deterioration. For now it remains a unique experience, even at night when we could hardly see it and had to pay bribes to have houses and shops opened for us. After the tour we politely refused an invitation to provide dinner, farewelled the hippies who were watching team handball between Morocco and Iceland, said we were leaving early the next morning and escaped. Not only did we spend far too much time in the apartment, eat too much and see nothing but handiwork factories and carpet sellers but we felt we had become quite well acquainted with the Fes underworld. Resounding out above this in direct contrast, high above in the minarets that dot the city and are useful as landmarks for lost tourists, the call of religion. It was exotic and fun, even though we fell for the Fes treatment. OTHER THINGS TO DO
Fes has numerous mosques, Queran schools, tanneries, government houses and good views over the city. The markets are incredible with every mouth watering flavour and smell imaginable. Pastias (pies with chicken, fruit and nuts and icing sugar coating) are famous in Fes. Marrakesh is the southern sister city and rival of Fes. It is smaller, cleaner and has fewer touts. It has tanneries, old mosques and palaces but its main feature is the central square. During the day there are orange juice stalls, snake charmers and herb sellers. At night there are acrobats, street entertainers and an open air food market. Further south is the outskirting desert regions of the great Sahara desert. You may wish to hire a car as public transport is infrequent. HOSPITALITY AND SAFETY
Moroccans are very friendly and don't pass up dinner or tea invitations if there is no hint of payment. Keep your wits about you, but most likely the "house" will be a room in a maze of alleyways. Hassles are pretty low key if you adopt the local attiutude of "enshallah" (as God wills) and don't be talked into anything. It is not advisable to travel alone or without male company. WHEN TO GO AND WHERE TO STAY
Winter in Morocco is a wonderful respite from Europe with warm sunny days. In summer it is hot, particularly in the south, but the shadowy alleyways in the medinas are cool. Be prepared to shop around and bargain for accommodation. Check for hot water and clean sheets. Hotel Cascade is recommended by many guest books, but the incredibly clean and new Pension Talaa further inside is the same price. GETTING THERE AND AWAY
There are international airports in Marrakesh, Agadir, Tangier, Fes, Laayoune, Oujda, Ouarzazate and Casablanca to name a few. Ferries leave daily from major ports in Spain, the most direct and commonly used is from Agleciras to Tangier. GETTING AROUND
Local transport is efficient and comfortable. Trains are punctual and safe, buses have standard fares but you need DR 5 spare for luggage charges. Always bargain for grand and petit taxis. |
