Feeling blue in Chefchouan
by Joanne Lane We ended up in Chefchouan by default - we got off the ferry from Spain and took the first bus out of Tangier, Morocco. It was going to Chefchouan. It's not the best way to plan an adventure into Morocco but we'd both been to the country before and it seemed the best option of going somewhere, anywhere out of Tangier the horrible port city and arrival point from Spain. Besides we'd heard of Chefchouan, who hasn't? The famous kif centre in the craggy Rif mountains just outside Tangier. Although it should be made clear right now, that this was not the reason we were going there. Chefchouan offered peace and quiet, a hillside get away, quiet mountains, green pine forests and a little Moroccan culture. And it was slightly warmer than mainland Europe and far more affordable. After penny pinching to travel in Europe it was a relief to relax a little with a north African budget. As a whole Chefchouan is the perfect place to relax. You can chill out drinking lots of tea (try the local mint tea specialty) and coffee in numerous cafes around the main central square. Or wander the steep and twisted alleyways passing laden donkeys and goats, shepherds, old men in Djellabas (hooded cloaks) and women with babies strapped to their backs. Any stroll through Chefchouan feels like walking through an aquarium. The houses and walls are all whitewashed but the shutters and doors are painted blue. The colour reflects through the steep, narrow alleyways and you'll often come across people repainting their doors and walls. In these alleyways you'll find craftsmen working in closet-sized shops weaving looms or cloth. There are old fountains, mosques, old doors ... always something inviting exploration and discovery. In the centre of Chefchouan is the historic town courtyard or Kasbah. Cafes face into it from around the edges offering low set seating and lots of candles. In the middle is a pretty little garden and the ruins of an old castle fort. There are some partly ruined rampart walls which house a small museum in two of the towers. Wandering out of town you'll find a river where women come to wash their clothes and paths leading up to a crumbling Spanish mosque on a nearby hillside where you can get fantastic views back to the town. If you're still feeling active you'll also enjoy walks in the surrounding hillside. Most of the shops are hidden away in the street walls and appear almost like little cupboards. Shopkeepers are generally friendly and helfpul and speak English, French and Spanish. The major fruit and vegetable markets are outside the historic centre in the newer parts of town. And this is where you'll find most of the local Berber people immediately recognisable for their large hats and the women's plaited hair. At night the markets come alive with a buzz that is only north African whereas mornings are quiet except for the first of the five-daily calls to prayer. It's a civilized place with a hint of African romance and you'll feel the bluest when you leave. GETTING THERE
Buses depart regularly from Tangier to Chefchouan during daylight hours. You can continue on to Rabat from here or get connections to other locations. If you are entering Morocco from Spain by boat get a taxi from the port to the bus station. It should cost less than 5 Dirham. If you are driving ask for directions to Chefchouan and take car. Some travellers have been stopped on the road and forced to make purchases. There are international airports at Casablanca, Tangier, Agadir and Marrakesh with connections to Europe, Africa and the Middle East. It's aso possible to take your own vehicle to Morocco on the variety of car ferries and jetfoils from Algeciras and Ceuta in Spain. WHEN TO GO
June-September are the most pleasant times to visit Morocco on the Atlantic-Mediterranean coast. Inland rains are sparse the year round and it can get hotter. On the central plateau the best conditions are from March-June and September-December. WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Babaoin inside the medina gives rooms with breakfast included from 90, 110 and 130 Dirham. The bathroom is inside and wth hot water. Pension Barcelona, Cordoba, Granada are all beautiful houses with central courtyards but often full. Prices start at 90 Dirham. BOOK HERE |
