VIP View - May 2006

DESTINATION: SPAIN

Charging bulls, flowing wineskins, cobbled streets, feast days and processions... It`s all become part of the annual Running of the Bulls in Pamplona or the Fiesta of San Fermin, which turns the town of 100,000 into a tourist mecca visited by 2.5 million people.

Pamplona in northern Spain`s Navarre region was made famous by the American writer Ernest Hemingway with his novel, The Sun Also Rises, seemingly written under the influence of the more exuberant parts of the fiesta! But once you`ve experienced San Fermin you`ll soon be able to relate to Hemingway`s experiences...

The festival started to honour a Pamplona bishop San Fermin who was tortured and beheaded in France. A cult grew around him when his remains returned in 1187. In 1385 a bull fighting festival started that coincided with his feast day. The practice of driving bulls through the centre of Pamplona was the most practical way to get them to the ring but it was not until the 1800s that men began running with them to prove their manhood. For years the city authorities tried to prevent the practice of running with the bulls. Obviously they didn`t succeed.

In any case celebrations begin on San Fermin`s feast day, July 7th, with processions in around the church of San Lorenzo where his remains are kept. But most come for the bull running which takes place at 8am every day from July 7 to 14. The running course is actually only about 1km in length but its thrills, spills and heart stopping moments are definitely not for the faint hearted. But you can certainly recover at the festivities afterwards that go well into the night.

If you`re planning on getting there for this years festival you`re probably too late to get accommodation in town so consider staying nearby or bring a tent! If you can`t make it for this years event don`t make the mistake of thinking that`s all there is to Pamplona or this region. There`s fiestas, siestas, food and wine to be enjoyed everywhere.

Pamplona itself boasts lush parks, a Gothic cathedral, huge citadel and quaint old quarter. North of Pamplona on the coast is San Sebastian, a ritzy resort with a perfect crescent shaped beach. There`s a little island offshore you can swim to or gaze at lazily from the beach. The nightlife in the old town at any time of year rivals that of San Fermin. Just don`t make the mistake of going out too early - nightlife in Spain starts well after midnight. While you are here make sure you try the San Sebastian tapas (mini snacks).

Further west you`ll come across Bilbao, home of the Guggenheim museum that has put it on the traveller`s map. This museum displays works by Serra, Braque, Kandinsky, Picasso, Warhol and others. The medieval core of Bilbao is Casco Viejo, a 14th century village of cobbled lanes where you`ll find tapas bars, cafes and great nightlife.

If you`re more actively inclined you might also consider doing some of the El Camino de Santiago in this region - an old pilgrimage route of about 1000km linking southern France to Santiago de Compostela in the far north-west of the country. The entire route takes six weeks to walk but if that sounds too much you can tackle just a part of it. However a highlight would be finishing in Santiago de Compostela for the annual festival on July 25th.

Combined with the other July festivities in Pamplona this summer could be a superb time for you to visit Spain. So start planning now - book your hostel, get a VIP card for savings and vamos!