A run around the world
By Joanne Lane In Sicily I was chased by dogs in the condom littered streets on the outskirts of Trapani. In Paris I made a narrow escape from an attacker on the metro. In Belgium my legs led me to freedom from a burning hotel. And in Italy's romantic Verona I took flight through the streets into pizza cafes and churches to escape a rather persistent Romeo. Perhaps these are not the most noteworthy of running achievements but they certainly are memorable. Times when running abilities and athletic prowess were of more use than any guidebook or police assistance. I've long since given up the days of organised competition and life on the road as a freelancer does not always provide the opportunities for regular training or racing. But the excitement of running in another culture, climate and terrain has more than made up for any losses. Not everyone has had the opportunity to run through the Indian himalaya with roads that wind past remote shrines to Hindu gods at altitudes of over 8000 feet, through tiny village settlements in Nepal where they still grind grain by hand but have televisions and radios, or the vineyards and olive groves of Tuscany where farmers will show you their land and let you sip the new wine. And there are always the local running enthusiasts that you meet along the way. Sometimes it's an old Italian man who claims to have run three marathons at the Olympics, pilgrims in India who run beside you on their way to the Ganges River to collect holy water, young children in Turkey or Senegal who will suddenly join you and keep up as long as they can. So next time you travel find a bit of space in your luggage for the joggers and time in your schedule, even if it's a quick dash around the city in the evening. The road less travelled is even more exciting when it's run. Here's a few tips on places to run. INDIA
India rates high on the danger and excitement scale of running and all you have to do is don your shoes. There are continually the threat of landslides, earthquakes or fires, not to mention the transport on the road that can consist of anything from camels, cows and pigs to rickshaws (three wheeled cars), taxis, trucks and over crowded buses. Over crowding and pollution are also potential problems, particularly the open sewers of human faeces and rubbish that line the streets. People in India are inherently curious and as no one really runs except the pilgrims and crazy tourists, running will generally attract a lot of attention. It's good to have a few phrases up your sleeve. You are inevitably asked, "Ap kya kar rahe hai?" (What are you doing?) But unfortunately the obvious response, "Mai dor raha hun," (I am running) does not always satisfy. Children or young men will usually join you for short stints but in and around Haridwar or Rishikesh Hindu pilgrims actually run great distances to the Ganges River to collect holy water. It's a great experience to join the lines of singing runners chanting "Ram Ram" (Hindu God) and stopping at their refreshments stalls along the way. In hill country it's not unusual to be joined by men running in full combat gear for military exercises. Running on Goa's beaches are also a highlight, especially when you stop for fresh fruit cut on the sand by brightly dressed women, and can enjoy the freedom of stripping down a little. For in India no one wears shorts, especially not women. So always dress in fairly full length baggy pants and long sleeved or large tshirts. Don't drink the tap water in India, always use bottled water and take plenty with you as it is not always available especially in villages or hill regions. SRI LANKA
The wrecked aircraft in Colombo airport on arrival and the presence of soldiers everywhere until recently were reminders of the civil war that raged here for over 20 years. But with a recent truce called with the terrorist Tamil Tigers Sri Lanka is now opening to tourism and looking forward to rebuilding their economy. The smiling Buddha statues that cover the country must have been perplexed at the horror Sri Lanka was divided in. But now they have plenty of reason to smile, as do visitors as much of Sri Lanka is geographically beautiful. Running is not much of a pastime for the Sengelese who only run to fetch cricket balls, something of a nationwide obsession, but it is not unusual to be joined by children or young men for brief periods. Some towns are a bit of a time warp with signs of the British postal services everywhere with red post boxes, red telephone kiosks and old hotels which seemed to be been airlifted out of England.
South west of Colombo the misty tea plantations dot the hillsides full of the toothy smiles of the scurrying tea pickers and women in colourful clothing. Running in the hills is challenging and delightful with endless mountain streams to cool off in from the humdiity, beautiful pine forests and the panoramic views of gentle green hills through patches in the cloud filled valleys. Despite the ravages of war, Sri Lankans are a friendly and hospitable people and English is generally understood. BHUTAN
This tiny Buddhist kingdom on India's north eastern border is peaceful, beautiful and untouched. Buddhist prayer flags adorn the mountain tops, ancient monasteries sit silently amongst virgin pine forests, red cloaked monks chant old prayers and religion is still very much a part of every day life. But its still relatively unknown to the outside world and the perfect place to explore on foot. There are restrictions on visitors including a hefty daily visa fee if you have not been officially invited into the country, and permits are required for most areas outside of the two major towns Paro and Thimpu. Most monasteries are a bit of a climb so only the more hard core runner will choose not to walk. The Takstang monastery near Paro is the most scenic of these and probably the most difficult to reach. Other monasteries in the Thimpu valley are easier to access. Other good running areas include the fields in the Bhumtang valley full of little paths between farming areas, wild grass, and alpine rivers. Food and hygiene in Bhutan is generally of high standard but you may want to stick to bottled water to be sure. SPAIN
In Spain's northern Basque country running has been taken to a new level. Every year they take to the streets in July before the thundering of many hooves in the Sanfermines, or running of the bulls festival in Pamplona. In this part of the country tables disappear under masses of food, wine flows liberally, bullfights create human Gods and people rarely sleep, so for the dedicated runner it might not be the ideal scenario. The ten or so days in Pamplona is no exception. For those that want a less life threatening running experience the hilly regions in the Sierra Nevada near Granada are a real challenge but the white washed villages and fantastic views are worthwhile. A pilgrimage route that starts in northern Spain and traverses the countryside is also a well stocked route of walkers and runners. The Camino to Santiago (Pilgrim's Way) was created after the discovery of the tomb of St james the Aostle in Santiago. A Bishop made the pilgrimage in 950AD and by the 11th century streams of people were making the pilgrimage. The entire distance is 720km. ITALY
Italy is another country where people seem to take special delight in rather strange running events. In Sardegnia's small town of Cabras the Corsa degli Scalzi or the barefoot race on August 23 attracts hundreds of young men in white shirts and shorts who run barefoot in the middle of summer at the rather hot time of 9am. Fortunately the run is only a few kilometres and it is more ceremonial or religious in nature so there's no real danger of physical exhaustion. Rural areas are amongst the most interesting and beautiful areas to run although they can be quite hilly. Try Umbria, Tuscany and Marche. Most farmers are friendly souls and it's worth stopping to have a chat or exchange of international sign language, you may even get invited to see the farm or have an espresso (short very strong swig of coffee). ENGLAND
England's moors, castles, forests and Roman Roads bring both natural elements and historical relics into interesting running experiences. The only major setback in England is of course the weather, fine days can turn irky very quickly and most visitors will be completely unprepared. Always, always take a raincoat and long sleeved shirt! Sherwood Forest near York (Yorkshire) and Dartmoor National Park are particularly worth a run. Be careful on the moors as it is deceptively easy to get lost. The coastal areas of Devon and Cornwall are also good running grounds with clearly marked tracks following some delightful coastline, try the Kingswear track from Dartmouth and make sure you stop off at the Minack theatre built into the rock just before Penzance (Cornwall). HOLLAND
Cycling is really the athletic past time in Holland but running is delightful most particularly because the country is so flat. There's plenty of history to see on the way including the ornate medieval centers of Ghent and Bruges, but the canals, old windmills, and fields of poppies make anywhere special. Winters are slippery and cold on the lungs for runners and it will be hard to get out into the white wilderness when there's the Dutch hospitality and incredible things to eat with equally incredible names like appel flappen, oliebol, hutspot, worst e jus and speculass. FRANCE
Running in any capital city is probably a recipe for disaster and it is no different in sweet Pari where honking drivers seem to think you are carrying giant target boards around your neck. However it is possibly the best way to experience this city. Running here is a journey into elegance and sophistication even in shorts and sneakers. There is nothing more appealing than running along the Champs Elysses when the lights come on, circling the Eiffel Tower, or inspecting the gargoyles in Notre Dame. It's impossible to capture the grandness of this city or to explore it all on foot, but you will run many miles. Baz Luhrman tried to in Moulin Rouge and even Ernest Hemmingway could do little to paint the magic of strolling the broad avenues, impressive public buildings, museums, parks and gardens, let alone the magic of running them! Caution should be taken when crossing busy Paris streets, particularly at the Arc de Triumphe where many roads converge. TURKEY
The Turkish are renowned for their hospitality, particularly their tiny glasses of black tea and lumps of sugar. Wherever you are running, someone is bound to turn up and invite you in for some cay (tea). Don't turn them down, as there is always the option of finishing the run later. Some amazing places to run include the strange rock like formations of the Capadoccia valleys, the shimmering blue Mediterranean coastline near Olimpos (Antalya) or Fethiye, and the amazing and historic Gallipoli peninsula. Although much of your run might be spent turning down offers from friendly locals and farmers wanting to help you reach your destination. Turkey is described as having one foot in Europe and one in Asia and some parts of the country are quite Westernized. However women are advised to dress conservatively and care should be taken in Eastern parts of the country near the borders with middle eastern countries like Syria and Iraq. On some sections of road in the East travellers are advised not to travel at night and to stick to reputable bus companies. Runners would be advised not to run alone in remote areas. MOROCCO
This is an Islamic country and in some areas women are very traditionally dressed in burka and are never seen alone. Foreigners are given a little more leeway but don't push your luck. Stick to populated areas and preferably run with a male or at least another woman and dress sensibly. The intricate mazes of the Fes medina are exciting with all manner of smells, markets and life although it is impossible not to become lost. So your run may turn out longer than expected. Fes is the oldest of the Imperial cities in Morocco and one of the largest living medieval cities in the world.
It is famous for the gates and walls surrounding the city, its maze of alleyways and bazaars and its over crowding and chaotic markets. Experts have warned the old city will slowly fall apart with its million plus inhabitants and so UNESCO is working to stop the deterioration. So expect to see lots of people and crumbling walls. AUSTRALIA
There are not too many places you can run barefoot on a beach in a bikini with an open stretch of sand in front of you with no one in sight. The freedoms and open spaces of Australia make any kind of run a delight and it's always a joy to return home to these things. Australia is the land of the weekend fun run and physical challenge where people seem to take any chance they can to join a run with a combination of canoeing, cycling, swimming, or mountain biking to form a gruelling event. Some classic runs feature Australia's best known places like the Glasshouse mountains in southern Queensland, Oxford Street to Bondi Beach along the city to surf track in Sydney's alternative lifestyle area, the Great Ocean Road near Melbourne, and around the base of Uluru to name a few. BOOK HERE |
