Hiking the Routeburn
By Joanne Lane I started the Routeburn track on a mild sunny afternoon in the height of the New Zealand summer. Three days later I emerged soaked and shivering, my pack a mess of wet biscuits, squashed fruit and sodden clothing. The three Americans had swathed themselves in garbage bags, the Israeli guy had turned back and taken the first bus out of there and the English trio were barely talking because they`d got lost taking detours. But when we were showered and warm back in Queenstown we agreed we`d had the time of our lives. The Routeburn Track traverses a variety of landscapes, flora and wildlife in the wild and scenic mountain country between the Hollyford and Dart valleys at the base of New Zealand`s Southern Alps. It is one of the more accessible and popular journeys in this region and has been in use for over 100 years. It is best walked in summer when the alpine passes are clear of snow. But as I discovered it can still be wet. A Maori legend says the glaciers in the region are the frozen tears of a young woman whose lover fell and died when climbing. The gods were moved by her weeping and preserved her tears as a memorial to her love. Those of us out on the Routeburn think she was still weeping. Day 1 The Divide to Lake Mackenzie - 14km, 5-6 hours
The Routeburn can be approached from Queenstown or Milford Sound. I took a coach to the Divide and alighted with three Californian college students. Chad, Dove and Doug all had long blonde hair, muscular rock climbing bodies and enough gear to grace a magazine cover. Unfortunately they failed to bring the one thing they really needed - raincoats. The first day was fair as we climbed to Key Summit for alpine views and then ped down to Lake Howden. The walk was moderate but the Americans were keen to do all the side paths. After we had climbed to an alpine lake and skirted a beech forest I decided we`d never make it before dark and parted company. As I headed to Earland Falls the dusk deepened. I passed an American girl, Letty, on the final descent to the Lake Mackenzie lodge. We finished together and shared a meal. It was cold and dark when the Americans arrived two hours later just as the ranger announced a storm front was moving in. She instructed us to be prepared with wet weather gear and start early the next morning. Avalanches had closed the track only the week before. Day 2 Lake Mackenzie to Routeburn Falls - 15km, 5-7 hours
Letty and I woke to a grey dawn and left at 7am. The first hour was an uphill climb through ancient forest draped in moss and lichen. We passed the avalanche area and its melting snow and the path levelled out. We had just commented the weather might hold when we rounded a ridge and hit the wind and rain. The tracks became rivers of mud. Our socks squelched between our toes, I almost lost a shoe and Letty fell in a stream. We soon forgot the promise of alpine flowers and views. In our rain swept world there was little to see. After 2.5 hours we stopped at the Harris Saddle Shelter. We ate our last stubs of chocolate and with stiff limbs we limped the next 1.5 hours to Falls Hut. We were first there and lit a fire to warm the 10-degree room. We hung our clothing by the fire and watched as other travellers arrived throwing bags down, finding dry clothes and joining us by the fire. We spent the evening playing cards with two Israelis and three English travellers. Day 3 Routeburn Falls to Routeburn Road - 10km, 3-4 hours
There was still plenty of rain and mist for the final 10km walk but it was lush green and beautiful by the alpine pastures of the Routeburn Flats. The track meandered beside the river we had seen from the ridges above. A gentle walk through columns of red beech trees brought us to the Road End and the Queenstown bus. The Americans arrived puffing five minutes later. They had slept in and run down so they wouldn`t miss the bus. Despite not having raincoats they had been inventive. Dove was draped in his space blanket and Chad wore plastic bags. Just before the bus came one of the Israeli guys arrived, he`d turned back and let his friend go on alone. But within an hour or two we`d forgotten the rain and were describing our memorable experience to other travellers back in Queenstown. And it really was. DETAILS
Pack a raincoat, sleeping bag, warm clothing, food, cooking and eating equipment. There are gas cookers, tables, cold running water, lighting, heating, a kitchen and bunkroom with mattresses. In winter the track is closed and even in summer bad weather can make it impassable. Check the conditions before you go. The track can be accessed by road from the Routeburn Shelter or The Divide. Public transport services both points. The New Zealand parks authorities provide huts or camping for a small fee. Campers are not permitted to use hut facilities. It is essential to book between late October and late April to guarantee a space. Transport costs up to $NZ100 to return to your starting point. See the www.doc.govt.nz site for details of transport operators. BOOK HERE |
