Ocean Rafting in the Whitsundays
by Joanne Lane I climb aboard the courtesy bus of the Ocean Rafting company and push my way through the laughing aisles of American backpackers to the back seat where I just manage to wedge myself between two burly males who show no intention of giving me anymore room. The bus is rowdy and I wince as we drive toward Abel Point Marina. Some trip this was going to be. I arrived in Airlie Beach only last night as the sun was setting over the beautiful cerulean blue Airlie Bay, the gateway to the Whitsunday`s 74 islands. After a stroll down Airlie Esplanade, which is littered with souvenir shops, takeaways, backpackers, and cafe/restaurants I wandered into the tourist information centre. Inside 101 brochures of different cruises and trips around the islands bombarded and confused me. In desperation I let the agent suggest something for me. She looked me over and pulled out the Ocean Rafting brochure. Ocean Rafting is a full day trip around the Whitsundays in a bright yellow rigid inflatable boat with twin 200hp engines. The brochure reads "three days in one" and includes snorkelling, a walk and a beach stop. A courtesy bus picks up passengers in the morning and takes you to the raft. But sometimes there are hitches. One passenger I met was given a free ticket because the bus forgot him the previous day. When we arrive at Abel Point Marina we all shyly pick out our fin sizes from a pile on the pier. To my dismay I am squashed into the seats again beside the two big Americans yet again after I board the boat. Ten minutes later a second group arrives and seats itself at the front of the boat. Our skipper`s name is Brad and his first mate is Mark, more commonly known as "Spinner". Brad collects money from everyone while Spinner proceeds to befriend all on board and earn his nickname as he tells story after story. It`s Spinner`s first day with Ocean Rafting but he certainly seems at home. Brad starts the engines and turns the boat into the bay towards the islands. It is a warm day, the sun is shining and the skies are blue with few clouds - a perfect picture postcard day according to the two-man crew. Once we get underway the turquoise blue sea opens up before us. The wind blows my hair and people lose their shyness and relax. Our first stop is a bush walk at Dugong Beach on Whitsunday Island. This island is the biggest in the bay at 109 sq km and is 438m high at Whitsunday Peak. Most of the islands are wooded and hilly and only six contain resorts. The Whitsundays are mostly continental islands or the tips of underwater mountains but many also have fringing coral reefs. The Great Barrier Reef is actually 60km out from the mainland. The Whitsundays were discovered by Captain Cook on July 3, 1770 and are curiously misnamed. Cook did not sail through here on Whit Sunday - his log book was a day out because he had not allowed for crossing the International Date Line. To everyone`s surprise Spinner is a biologist and he spends the first ten minutes telling us Dugong Beach is a limestone or organic beach which means it is made from materials like broken up coral and shell. The walk is a discussion of the vegetation and the different direction vines curl up trees in the southern hemisphere as compared to the northern. This develops into a conversation among the rest of the group about how water flushes and swirls down the toilet basin differently in the two hemispheres and a mention of the Simpsons episode where Bart calls Australia to confirm this. Half an hour later we emerge on an inorganic or silica beach, made from broken down glass. Brad is waiting in the boat for us. To get back on board we must wade through a waist deep stream. I do not know if this is a deliberate ploy to have a bit of fun with us or lighten everyone up, but it works. Laughing we strip down and hold shoes, cameras and clothes above our head as we wade to the boat. Dressing myself back on board I meet Caroline, an English law graduate from Birmingham on holiday before heading home to full-time work and Paul, also as English as Yorkshire Pudding, who flies home in two days time. He is the one the bus forgot yesterday. We head further around Whitsunday Island towards Whitehaven beach. By the time we land I have befriended almost everyone on board except two German girls whose tattoos, hairy armpits and nose studs have made them a little difficult to approach. Whitehaven Beach is a seven kilometre stretch of glistening pure white silica sand and is considered the jewel of the Whitsunday Islands. As we look down an empty stretch of footprint-free beach Spinner tells us for the 100th time it is a picture postcard day and the kind on which tourist companies chose a deserted beach, put up an umbrella, lay out a towel, place a beautiful young model on it, give her a pina colada and bring out a photographer. Two hours on Whitehaven beach quickly disappears with lunch, snorkelling practise and exploration. For an additional fee Ocean Rafting provides a lunch of marinated chicken, a selection of salads and fruit. Sitting on this beach with a plate full of food is the closest to paradise I have ever been. About one billion people visit this part of the world each year so a reef tax and national park fee of $3 has been imposed. On board the boat are recycling and food bins, so nothing is left behind in the water or on the islands. They really mean it when they say "Take only photos... leave only footprints". The ocean raft has two distinguishing features: it is fast, it gets up to 30 knots or 65km/hr, and it can drift snorkel which means you can get closer to the reef with easy access to and from the boat. After another stunning boat ride around more of the islands we anchor about 30m from shore. Spinner and Brad tell us to jump out the boat and swim to the reef. Unfortunately the feature movie on television the previous night was Jaws and almost everyone had watched it. So no one is keen when they tell us there are sharks in the area. A ten minute pep talk insures about how few man-eating sharks there are (only about 3 kinds in the world), how we will be safer in the water than on the boat and how more Australians die on the road or from lightning strikes each year than from sharks. Unfortunately Spinner`s assurances have the opposite affect on me. As one of only four Australians on board, I am beginning to think life is just too dangerous here and I decide I will never step foot outside again if I ever make it through this trip. But somehow the lure of the reef overcomes our fears and one by one we off the boat. It`s an eerie feeling being underwater with only the sound of your breathing to keep you company. It is impossible to see more than 10 metres either way and if a shark swims past me I will not see it until it is too late. Schools of tropical fish team around the reef within arms reach, flowering coral plants sway in mysterious underwater currents and 90 minutes passes all too quickly. The forty five minute trip back to Airlie Beach is just enough time to dry out, do some 360 degree spins, collect a postcard from Brad, compare snorkelling stories and plan to meet for drinks and dinner tonight. We meet at Magnums cafe/restaurant on the main street at 6.30pm. Brad keeps up the flow of free drinks while Spinner entertains us with stories and photos of his trip to Antarctica. Opposite me is the gentle giant Uli, a primary teacher from Germany who has frequented all the German beer drinking festivals and has ridden his little 250cc motorbike 22,000km around Australia. On my right is an American couple from Seattle. The wife travels the world with her husband who is something that sounded like a theoretical scientist. They have been everywhere, even Antarctica and chat with Spinner about it most of the night. The lucky Englishman Paul, who scored the free trip today, tells everyone of his 3 week four wheel drive adventure from Darwin to Perth. He reminds me of the Irish comedian Jimeoin. A mechanical surfboard provides us with much entertainment when members of our group take their turn in solo and tandem. Spinner and Brad eventually emerge winners. At the end of the night we all embrace and part sadly. For a group of complete strangers we developed friendships quickly. HAMILTON ISLAND
A day tripper package to Hamilton Island is the perfect way to unwind or relax, especially after a high packed island adventure like Ocean Rafting. For only $71 you get return transfers on Fantasea Cruises, a free lunch, free use of the resort main pool and access to the hospitality lounges and bathrooms. Fantasea Cruises departs from Shute Harbour, the second of the council-run jetties in the Airlie Beach area. Shute Harbour seems to be the launch pad for an army of the larger cruise vessels, luxury yachts and ferries. Always double check departure times as they do change. Fantasea has other packages - see www.fantasea.com.au for details Hamilton Island is the most heavily developed resort island in the Whitsunday`s. A one hour trip from Shute Harbour brings you into the beautiful 200-boat Hamilton Marina and village. Hamilton Island has its own airport, shops, over 30 bars and 25 eateries and accommodation for more than 2000 people. Parasailing, go-carting, target shooting, windsurfing, jet boating, catamaran sailing, fish feeding and a hill-top fauna reserve with native Australian animals are just some of the 80-plus activities advertised for the visitor. To get to all these activities you will need transport and buggies and mountain bikes are available for hire as soon as you step off the boat. But if you just want to spend a relaxing day by the pool, walk straight over the hill to the resort. The pool has deck chairs, water volleyball, a bar where you order your drinks from a watery stool, and it even overlooks the beach. Use your meal voucher at Toucans, the resort restaurant, where you can watch the activity in the water and attempt to make your way through the huge dishes they serve. The guacamole is well worth the effort and the view of the beach is one of those picture postcards. OTHER THINGS TO DO
Cedar Creek Falls is a pleasant spot to visit for a swim and picnic. It is 14kms off the road between Proserpine and Airlie Beach. The dirt road ends in a cul-de-sac with toilets and a short path leading to the falls and a quiet pool. The bush around is very still apart from the noisy mosquitoes (remember your insect repellent) and kind of eerie if you do not enjoy solitude. For those that have seen Jaws too many times Airlie Beach is also home to the Vic Hislop Great White Shark and Whale Expo. The Expo features a 4000lb great white shark that is kept in a freezer 25 below, two movies about whales and sharks and other educational and interesting exhibits. There is also a Wildlife Park just out of town and plenty of other activities to do like trail rides, 4WD tours, sky-diving and bungy jumping. GETTING THERE
There are two different day trips available with Ocean Rafting for $97 or you can do both for $164. Children and families get discounts. The lunch is an extra $12. Book in the tourist information centre next to Magnum`s on the Airlie Esplanade and they will arrange a courtesy bus to pick you up from your accommodation. Information is also available here for other Whitsunday activities ph. 079 466266. Airlie Beach is 1146km north of Brisbane. Flights leave Brisbane and Cairns daily to Hamilton Island. BOOK HERE |
