Anzac Day, Gallipoli
By Joanne Lane A trip to Anzac Cove on the Gallipoli peninsula has become a pilgrimage for young Australians and New Zealanders, who come from all over the world to commemorate those who died in the First World War. Joanne Lane reports on the 24-hour build up to the event. 11pm Selcuk - Cannakale
It`s cold, dark and late but anticipation is at fever pitch. Twenty-four hours and counting to Anzac Day and the excitement is like a line of static crackling through the air. Australian historian Charles Bean`s words, "The love of country in Australians and New Zealanders was intense - how strong, they did not realise until they were far away from home," could easily sum up the scene I take part in now with thirty plus adventure bound Aussies and Kiwis waiting for a bus in the dusky midnight hours of Selcuk ready to commemorate the contribution of their country men. They`ve come from all over the world, interrupting holidays, schedules and work catching planes, buses and trains on a pilgrimage to what many consider important to their own sense of national identity. It`s been a haul for many to get here and we`re still far from Gallipoli. 11.30pm
Bags are shoved in every available space under, on top and inside the bus. It`s crowded and there aren`t enough seats. No one is ready to sleep. United in a friendly camaraderie we try to get comfortable for the overnight journey ahead. 1.15am The driver gets a call on his cellular and asks if someone has left a red bag behind. After a few moments of agonised silence he realises the bag is his. We all laugh. There are snatches of Waltzing Matilda throughout the night and "Aussie, Aussie, Aussie". 5.30am The bus pulls into Cannakale. The drivers can`t seem to find the stop and we spend half an hour in narrow streets reversing, turning and stumbling through the gloom. 6.00am The bus unloads outside one of the many hotels offering Anzac Day tours. Half an hour later we have free use of a bed and bathroom in return for joining their tour. 10.00am We stumble out misty eyed through the streets of Cannakale after a few hours sleep, raiding the shopping centres for food and picnicking in the park. A photographer from the local Cannakale newspaper photographs us, an Aussies on pilgrimage type shot. He does not speak any English but we understand our picture will be in tomorrow`s paper. The town is humming with visitors and tourists, the locals enjoying the business and the friendly atmosphere. Street side stalls serve up all sorts of tasty Turkish treats like simits (bread), Turkish delights, olives, kebabs and of course tea. The older Turkish men sit in tea shops playing backgammon, cards or crosswords or watching us wander by. Everyone is friendly and there seems to be an understanding that we are not here to commemorate the invasion of their country but rather the enterprise, resourcefulness, fidelity, comradeship and endurance that will never own defeat all principles both the Allies and Turks fought on. Friendly calls of "Aussie" and "Kiwi" from street vendors are common but they know none of us are interested in carpets and pillowcases today. 1.00pm We return to the hotel for a day tour of the Gallipoli peninsula. There are British, Canadians, French and Turkish visitors also. We take the 1.30pm ferry to Kilitbahir Village visiting all the historic places like the Kabatepe War Museum, Ari Burnu (1st Anzac landing), Shrapnel Valley, the Turkish memorial, Lone Pine (Australian memorial), Courtney and Quinns Post, Tunnel and trenches, The Nek, Walkers Ridge, and Chunuk Bar (NZ memorial). The peninsula is wildly beautiful with beaches, hills and cliffs that hardly seem the setting for war. However as the guides point out the narrowness of the beach landings, the exposed countryside, the harsh gorse and lack of tree cover the difficulty of the Anzacs task becomes apparent. It`s a quiet and moving day. Each person dealing with what they have seen and read: 87,000 Turkish, 21,200 British, 10,000 French, 8,700 Australian, 2,700 New Zealand, 1,350 Indian and 49 Newfoundland lives lost. New Zealand troops suffered a 90 percent casualty rate. Of 140 men in boats heading for the North Beach on April 25, only 35 reached the beach safely. It`s endless. Among the 31 war cemeteries on the peninsula are descriptive thoughts and biblical verses: "He died that we might live. 22 years" and "To live in the hearts of those we love is not to die, 17 years", "With undaunted heart he breasted life`s last hill" and the simple but poignant "Well done Ted". Some look for relatives, others enjoy finding names and stories they know like the legendary John Simpson Kirkpatrick who transported the wounded by donkey. The Turkish guides described the difficulty of life on the peninsula and in the trenches but of the humanity that prevailed - the Turks and Allies exchanging goods across the trenches, allowing time for the removal of the dead and wounded and even curfew time when they played cricket. 5pm We return to the hostel where the Gallipoli movie is on. The hallways are crowded with packs and people, a line outside the bathroom. Expectation builds. 11pm Preparations for the night on the peninsula begin. No hostel, hotel or travel agency in Cannakale will sleep tonight. It is impossible not to draw comparisons with another April 25 in 1915. 12pm The streets are filled with other pilgrims making their way to the harbour to board ferries. It`s a cold night. There is standing room only on the top deck. It`s a starry night. There is no doubt in my mind that every person on board is thinking of the same fateful crossing years ago, when men much younger than ourselves crept across in boats to an uncertain future. We find ourselves next to some young Turkish girls who are also going to the dawn service. Our chatter is friendly, past atrocities and hurts forgotten. The young Turkish population is a warm, hospitable generation. Keen to be moving forward, accepting and embracing new ideas and ways of life. Their own former leader Attaturk, who fought in the war himself, set the tone for this attitude with his own words in 1934: "You, the mothers, Who sent their sons from far away countries Wipe away your tears, Your sons are now lying in our bosom And are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land. They have become our sons as well." 1am We arrive in Gebilou where numbered buses come in convoy to pick up their passengers. It`s almost like a military operation. There is confusion, noise and a slow journey to Anzac Cove. We try to sleep. 1.30-2.00am Anzac Cove. The small clearing is already packed with bodies in sleeping bags, to number 15,000 by morning. Some have been here for hours, an all night vigil. They have food, lights, games, drinks. It`s friendly and good spirited. We toss down our blankets and bags in a free grassy patch near the front. 3am It`s freezing cold and difficult to sleep. I spare a thought for the young men of the war who went through the winter like this, 8 months on this peninsula. 5am. Dawn breaks. Voices raised in excitement and fervour moments before die to silence as the last post sounds. The service coinciding with the same time the first boatloads men landed metres away. People stand with heads bowed, united in grief and commemoration. The people on the cliffs above, now silhouetted by the dawn have taken off their hats. It`s strange to spend a quiet moment with 15,000 people, hearing the sharp intakes of breath, the muffled crying, the mingled grief and remembrance for those who died. By the time the last echo of the bugle resounds of the cliffs there is not a dry eye in the place. There are other services throughout the day but to see the day begin at Anzac Cove is truly a moving experience. IF YOU GO ON THE TOUR
Take plenty of warm clothes for the night but be prepared to strip right down in the day. There is no shelter on the peninsula and it can be hot in April in Turkey. Most tours provide food and drinks, but visitors would be advised to bring extra water and supplies. During the day there are several services, the first at Anzac Cove at dawn. Other services include memorials at the Turkish, New Zealand, Australian and International sites. WHEN TO GO
The April period in Turkey is actually one of the best times to go. The weather is still cool before the hot summers that inflict this part of the world, but warm enough for beach weather, hiking and travel. Obviously for visits to the Gallipoli peninsula it is the busiest time. The two weeks either side of Anzac Day, usually more so after, is Turkeys busiest tourist season. WHERE TO STAY
Turkey has an abundance of hotels, pansiyon`s and hostels for all budgets. To get a place to stay in Cannakale bookings are required ahead of time. Although for the actual Anzac Day night no sleep is possible and most travellers find they only need a place to store their belongings. Plenty of tours are available that provide food, transport and baggage storage for visitors. It is possible to visit the Gallipoli peninsula for Anzac Day services without booking a tour, although some places try scare monger tactics to persuade otherwise. The Turkish authorities do not mind people camping out at Anzac Cove provided they are well behaved and orderly. Hitch, hike or bus out there the day before, bring warm clothes and settle in for the night. GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Tours and buses run to Cannakale from all around Turkey. The bus system within Turkey is very efficient, comfortable, has in-house service, food and even movie entertainment and is generally considered better than the trains. Contact your local travel agent for latest airfares. OTHER PLACES TO GO
For those with time to explore more of Turkey some highlights include the hamams, mosques, hustle and bustle of Istanbul Cappadocia with its wild valleys and strange rock formations the seaside splendour of Olimpos and Fethiye on the Mediterranean the ancient ruins at Ephesus and the limestone rock formations at Pamukkale. BOOK HERE |
