A Romp Through the Tuscan Vineyards
By Joanne Lane Francesco Pizzolato is barking orders from the back of a tractor filled with freshly picked red grapes. He`s a comical figure in his peaked hat, his stout stomach straining against his braces but one who at 70 years of age still commands instant respect. "Oy, Stefano, comè stai ora?" Stefano, how are you?, he calls to his son. "E comè il lavoro?" And how is the work? "Sei stancho?" Are you tired? "No capo, sto bene, e tu?", No boss I`m fine, what about you? "Sto bene," I`m well, comes the reply. It`s "la vendemmia" (the wine harvest) in Certaldo, Tuscany, and Francesco`s pickers are working steadily down rows of grapes in a picturesque setting of rolling vineyards and olive groves in order to produce their annual 10,000 bottles of wine. Their hands flit between the green leaves finding the lush bunches, extrapolating them gently and cutting expertly. One man takes the full buckets and replaces them with empty ones, pouring the contents into the back of the tractor. The grapes are ripe, almost bursting in their fullness. It`s a good harvest. Vincenza Pizzolato hums as she works nearby. Francesco listens to his wifes song and then exclaims, "Madonna Santa, perche ci sono quattro persone in questo spazio e non ci sono nessuno qua? Voi due andate adesso." Why are there four people in this spot and no one over there? You two go right now. He directs work with a steady banter of jokes, gibing, flattery and rebukes, all good naturedly gruff. It`s his show. An ageing Sicilian wine grower, about to hand over the reigns to his children, Stefano and Guiseppina working nearby. Antonello, the oldest son, is working his own fields in a town nearby. But for now Francesco is still reigning boss. And he`s enjoying it. Francesco Pizzolato`s family came to Tuscany in 1948 from Sicily, a town called Partinico in the provence of Palermo. They may have been in Tuscany over 50 years but they are still Sicilian and the wine growing tradition that runs four generations back in their family followed them from the southern Mediterranean to the Tuscan fields. Stefano and Antonello followed in the family tradition and studied at an Agricultural Institute to improve their capabilities, Giuseppina on the other hand is a chef who caters for local events and runs cooking courses featuring the specialties of local cuisine with foreigners and Italians alike. She lives on her fathers property with her husband Luigi and often helps with things like the harvest. Luigi is a construction worker and is working in town, their two boys Simone and Luca are at school. Today Giuseppina is dressed in gum boots and old clothes, very different from the stylish typically Italian way she normally dresses. She is looking fondly at her sister in law Katyusica who is relating a humorous tale about a phone conversation she had with American president George W. Bush about the troubles in Afghanistan. Katyusica`s name is Russian and she has a deep, husky voice to match that everyone listens to and laughs, Giuseppina the loudest of all. The two of them are always together, thick as thieves, in cahoots against their husbands. Francesco has disappeared and Stefano takes over the reigns, calling Giuseppina over to learn to drive the tractor. The farm, Falisca II, produces several types of wine: two red Tuscan wines, a white Tuscan, a Merlot, a Cabernet, a red Chianti and Stefano`s favourite, the Chianti Macocche 1 that he created himself from a selection of Sangiovese grapes. He`s forever declaring this wine as his best and will bring boxes of it along to dinner functions. Sicilian hospitality knows no bounds. Stefano`s other passion in life is hunting and Katyuscia declares it is the only time he will rise before dawn to do anything. Chianti wine is quality controlled in Tuscany, indicated by a pink label around the neck of the bottle that shows it has been tested and given a quality guarantee. All the grapes at Falisca II are hand picked to assure this quality. It`s close to midday and Francesco and his wife reappear to announce lunch. It`s al fresco style in the fields, the tables pulled under the shade of a tree. Bottles of wine fill any space on the table not covered in dishes of steaming pasta, dripping eggplant sauces, bread and other vegetables. Giuseppina`s husband Luigi appears as if on queue. He`s quite the character, often found down at the local pub or out dancing with Giuseppina at the Latin nights at the local pub. Katyuscia watches how much Stefano consumes, declaring he is on a diet and how is he ever to lose weight when he eats like this. Stefano ignores her, and takes another helping of food and a glass of wine. At another table some of the men are putting their heads on the table to rest. Francesco swaggers by them. "Che cosa? Sono tutti stanchi!", What`s this? They are all tired! "No capo, no no, non siamo stanchi, stiamo solo riposando," No boss, no we are not tied, we are resting," is the immediate reply. "Allora, andiamo," Alright then let`s go. After an hour or so of feasting and rest, the group dons their boots. Some are sleepy from the wine, others merry but all are ready to start again. After all there is the promise of another feast again once the sun sets. As they start work again in the sunny Tuscany fields Francesco can be heard again… "Allora, tu come stai? Tutto bene?" Alright, how are you? All well? "Ragazzi, ragazzi siamo piano, troppo piano. Vai, vai, vai!" People, people we are slow, too slow. Go go go. WHEN TO GO
The wine harvest takes place in Italy anytime from late September to early October, the date depending on rain conditions. The best time to visit Tuscany is between April and October, although the summers particularly August are hot and there can be many tourists. WHERE TO STAY
For those wishing to stay in Certaldo, the Fattoria del Bassetto, a former Benedictine monastery and now a travellers lodge is the best option. There are dorm and private rooms in the old buildings for between AUD $35 and $65 per person per night. Bookings are essential. Contact info@bassettoguesthouse.com or see their website www.bassettoguesthouse.com During the year Stefano and his family run cooking courses and you can visit their farm for the wine and olive harvests. For more information go to their website www.cookingwithgiuseppina.com or email them at giuseppina@cookingwithgiuseppina.com GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Certaldo is on the train line between Siena and Florence. Fattoria del Bassetto picks up guests from the train station if you have a booking and provide them with the time of your arrival. The train is the best way to travel throughout Tuscany, there are also local buses to smaller towns but the scheduling is not frequent and not always convenient. Most visitors to Tuscany will find the best way to explore is to have your own transport. Cars can be hired in major cities nearby. OTHER THINGS TO DO
The towns of Siena, Florence, Pisa, Lucca and San Gimignano are all within a days travel from Certaldo, making it a perfect central location for seeing the region. For more active holidayers bike riding, horse riding, walking, historical tours and vineyard visits are all possible from Bassetto. BOOK HERE |
