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by Joanne Lane There`s something eerie about winter mornings in Tuscany. The ancient vineyards and woods are cloaked in dawn mists and light has not yet arrived to give perspective to obscure shadows. Almost indistinguishable figures of men in camoflauge gear flit through the hills like ghosts with dogs scampering eagerly at their heels. If you didn`t know better it would appear ritualistic as they nod to each other knowingly like members of a secret sect and then disappear into the trees. And in a way it is. There`s not much that will get Tuscan men out of bed before dawn on winter weekends except the promise of the rare tartufi or truffle. Stefano Martini and Vito Bianchino, both 34, are crazy about this unsual fungus, describing their weekends as a "passione" or hobby. However it`s not really clear if this "passione" is simply a love of being out with nature, if they`re more interested in the exhorbitant retail value of tartufi or simply the eating afterwards. Stefano`s waistline certainly tells its own story. Stefano is a wine grower I`ve known for several years and he and Vito are arguing about where they should take me to find tartufi as we career through small Tuscan towns at speeds only Italians know how to control. In ancient times it is believed tartufi appeared where lightning had struck tree roots. In actual fact tartufi grow spontaneously in certain conditions mainly beneath oaks, willows, linden, poplars and cherry trees. They require ideal conditions of acidity and humidity so it`s almost impossible to cultivate them. It also means it`s hard to find them. This forms part of their mystery and why Tuscan men even into their twilight years still spend their winter mornings in search of an allusive find. The argument about where we should go is getting very heated as Stefano wants to go somewhere that Vito thinks is no good for photographs. Vito threatens to quit driving and go home. Eventually they both turn to me. I know nothing about tartufi and I`ve never been to either place so I simply say, "Andiamo dove ci sono tartufi," (let`s go where there are tartufi). "Brava!" Stefano cries as if he`s won the argument. Vito is pacified and we continue. There are three kinds of tartufi found in Tuscany - the white (bianco), black (nero) and marzuolo. The white tartufi is the most prized and can sell for Euro 800-3000/kg. These are found mainly in September and October so today we will only find the marzuolo, still reasonably priced at Euro 150-500/kg. When we finally stop deep in the woods they open the back of the car where Dolly and Leah are waiting expectantly. The dogs scramble out into the open sniffing the air. Truffles actually grow underground and the only way to get them to the surface is by using a truffle dog. These dogs have a highly developed sense of smell and are trained from an early age to recognise the aroma of tartufi. They are also very expensive to buy, as much as Euro 7-10,000 for a good dog. We begin walking along a forest path, the sound of our boots disturbing the silence of the morning. The owners and dogs split up and sniff out the clearings either side of the trees. After several minutes Leah scrabbles frenetically in the dirt beneath one tree and a split second later Vito has leaped in to join her on his hands and knees. Truffle dog owners must be attentive to both stop the dogs from kicking out and losing the tartufi with the soil in their haste or before they eat it. Expertly trained truffle dogs will find the tartufi for their masters, but most will simply eat them. Stefano and Vito both trained their dogs personally and still need to intervene. Vito gently coaxes Leah`s jaws open to remove a tartufi. It`s only a few centimetres in diameter but he rewards her with a small treat and places the find in his pocket. They aren`t the most gracious looking things and look like small nuggets. "Per bene Dolly," Stefano pleads with his dog Dolly when he sees what Leah has found. A few minutes later Dolly has found a similar sized tartufi and we continue through the woods. Mud proof boots, a small hoe for digging out tartufi, a jacket with large pockets and small food treats for the dog seem to be the physical requirements for finding tartufi. Combined with the passion of the search, a knowledge of likely spots and the experience of years. Stefano and Vito are competitively friendly and check each others finds but when other "tartufaio" pass by in cars they eye them suspiciously. Tartufi spots are guarded fiercely along with hunting secrets although there are truffle clubs, calendars and events where people meet and swap ideas and stories. But it`s all a very serious business and permits are required to hunt. Stefano and Dolly found an 85g tartufi several weeks ago that his family ate for dinner. But he won`t give Vito even the slightest hint about where he was that day or even a journalist with no tartufi dog. Both the owners and their dogs are a hilarious combination. Leah is over exuberant and as much excited about finding the tartufi as stepping on it or kissing her master. Dolly on the other hand needs much coaxing with potato chips. By the end of the morning we`ve found handfuls of tartufi by villas, small hills, ditches and woods. None are terribly large but we`ve got enough for the planned "festa". When I return home the farmer next door asks me where we went. I find I`ve become as allusive as Stefano and give only vague directions. I`ve seen this farmer out with his dog and won`t give away Stefano and Vito`s secrets. A few days later the families of Stefano and Vito combine to celebrate the fruits of their labour. Stefano brings the wine, his sister cooks, and we eat listening to tales of tartufi hunts. Plates of steaming pasta are served with grated tartufi which has a pungent earthy aroma that is considered a delicacy. I can`t say I`ll ever become a connoisseur but in Tuscany food and wine are the only fitting way to end any experience - Buon Apetito. WHERE TO STAY
The Bassetto Guesthouse in Certaldo, Tuscany is a former XIVth century Benedictine monastery that became a farm and now a lodge for independent travellers. To contact the guesthouse go to www.bassettoguesthouse.com or email info@bassettoguesthouse.com
Alternatively try the Falisca II farm in Sciano, not far from Certaldo, www.cookingwithgiuseppina.com HOW TO DO IT
You can accompany Stefano and Vito to find tartufi for a fee. To contact Stefano write to his sister Giuseppina who runs professional cooking courses in Tuscany. Her website is www.cookingwithgiuseppina.com or email info@cookingwithguiuseppina.com WHEN TO GO
The best tasting tartufi are found in September and October but it is possible to find them the entire winter season. The amount and quality depends a lot on the weather from the previous summer. Generally Tuscan winters are wet and cold so for warmer weather consider coming for the wine season (September) or the summer sunflowers (July). GETTING THERE
International flights land in major Italian cities like Rome, Venice and Milan. European flights like Ryan Air and Easy Jet also land in Pisa and Milan. Train connections can get you to Certaldo where Bassetto Guesthouse and Falisca II can pick you up from the train station. For train schedules see www.trenitalia.it BOOK HERE |
