A Tuscan Outing
By Joanne Lane "Andiamo?" (Shall we go?) the old Italian man queried as he indicated the tower above us.
"No, grazie, e troppo cara," (No thankyou, it`s too expensive).
I add that my Italian is not very good. But he merely shakes his head and tells me he will pay. So I say he is very generous and wonder if I`m getting more than I bargained for. I do. It was a free view but there were plenty of attempts at hand holding, waist grabbing and much sighing and exclamations at how beautiful I was. I don`t know if this is typical Italian behaviour or if he was a lovesick Romeo but I`ll never forget that first view of the Tuscan hillside from the rooftops over Siena. The landscape here is best described as a patchwork quilt. Reddy-brown medieval towns with tall towers dot the hilltops. The hillsides are a network of pencil drawn vineyards and green leafed olive groves. Sometimes the green turns to yellow as sunflowers fill the fields with raised heads, or even to purple and brown as it becomes more barren. The landscape is punctuated with villas, small towns and winding lanes. In the towns themselves it is a delight to wander through the arched alleyways with washing hanging from the walls and stumble across a quiet church or piazza. Cats climb the arches and wander the streets, or laze in the sun. Neolithic cultures occupied this region from 4500 BC, until the Romans pushed through around 358BC. When their empire fell Tuscany was invaded by barbarians and it was not until the 9th century that towns began to rebuild themselves. As each town tried to establish independence squabbles ensued. But it did not affect the economy. There was trade with Europe and culture and religion revived and fed into the Italian Renaissance. Siena is considered one of Tuscany`s most beautiful cities although the more you travel here you wonder what isn`t. Its flamboyant history has continued with the famous horse race, the Palio, held twice annually in the town`s oblong square the Piazza del Campo. The town itself is a medieval ensemble of palaces, towers and a Gothic historic centre mostly coloured in the same oozing honey-dripped, brown brick known as burnt siena. The peaceful atmosphere of modern Siena is deceptive. It actually has a warlike history. In the Middle Ages rich nobles built tall defence towers, fought in the streets and divided the city into armed camps. The cities favourite sport (before the Palio), was a 300-a-side fist fight in the Campo. Tempers sometimes flared and then axes and crossbows were brought out. Its status as a self governing republic brought it into rivalry with Florence. In one incident the Florentines hurled dead donkeys and excrement into Siena hoping to start a plague. Fortunately today it`s fairly quiet, except for the hordes of tourists. Siena is not the only prize in this area of Italy. Not far away is the smaller medieval hill top town of San Gimignano, a tongue twister for foreigners that sets the locals laughing. It has a medieval feel with its many turrets, stone houses, arches, hilltop location, city gates and narrow streets. It`s easy to wander these streets lost for time and other considerations, springing onto open expanses of true Tuscan scenery - vineyards spreading out below, small villa`s and clumps of trees planted for wind protection. San Gimignano once had 72 towers in a town barely one-eighth of a square mile in size. Today only 14 remain but some loom over 50m high. During the Medieval Ages almost ever town in central Italy looked like this. Feuding families built towers as defensive strongholds and demonstrations of power. However by the 16th century most were affected by age and had begun to decay. They were also destroyed at every opportunity as a way of removing symbols of noble influence. The city was an independent republic from the early 1100s until 1353 when Florence took over its rule. The Cadogan guide describes it as a town with the "air of a false start, a free commune that could build a wall and defend itself, yet lacked the will or the money to make itself into a Siena or a Florence". Most historians and tourists would probably also agree that this is what gives the city its charm. In fact many Florentines and Sienese probably used it as a resort town during the Renaissance. Today it has not changed much and in fact San Gimignano and many of the more famous towns are now tourist ridden, although most are day trippers so nights are tranquil. But probably the best way to find your ideal Tuscan town is to take your time and wander off the beaten track. Some towns are home to very small communities and can contain such hidden delights as old olive presses and monasteries or simply an alfresco lunch of cheese, ham, bread and wine. Some of the lesser known gems include Volterra, famous for its alabaster and Roman ruins, and little known Certaldo with the old red bricked castled village sitting above the town is a hidden delight. The Chianti region and the area south of Siena near Pienza and Montalcino are also worth visiting. Walking, bike riding and horse riding are good outdoor pursuits in these areas. But for a true Tuscan experience it is probably better to stay put, rent a villa for the week, put your feet up, perhaps try your hand at some painting if you feel inspired, and let the sunshine and scenery work its magic. OTHER THINGS TO DO
Florence is the largest town in Tuscany and no trip to the region is complete without a visit here. There are a wealth of museums, galleries, palaces and beautiful views. If you have more time, Pisa famous for its leaning tower and baptistery is also on the train line and nearby is the Renaissance town of Lucca with an almost completely intact 4 kilometre circling city wall. GETTING THERE
There are international airports in Florence and Pisa, but most flights arrive in Rome. From any of these points there is a good system of trains or buses that network the major towns. Siena, Certaldo and Florence are on direct train and bus lines. The other towns are easily accessible by bus. WHEN TO GO
Every season in Tuscany is delightful with distinct changes in the landscape. Summer is the best time to visit in terms of weather, but in September-October when the main season is over, accommodation is cheaper and crowds fewer. In autumn the leaves turn gold but it rains more and the views are not as good. Winter is wet and cold. WHERE TO STAY
The best way to see Tuscany is to make a base and day trip around the region. Fattoria Bassetto in little known Certaldo is the perfect location for this. It is a family run facility with private and dorm rooms in a former Benedictine monastery. It is less than an hour by train to places like Florence, San Gimignano, Siena and Volterra. Pisa and Lucca are also easily accessible. They also have mini van tours, horseriding, bikes to rent and run other social activities. In San Gimignano there is one hostel ( L26,000 with breakfast). Hotels and private rooms start from at least L60,000 per person per night. In Siena there is one hostel outside town, inside the accommodation is expensive and reservations are advisable. Private rooms and hotels range from L60-90,000. Florence has a number of hostels, a wealth of hotels and private rooms but reservations in summer are advisable. BOOK HERE |
