Seductive Sicily
By Joanne Lane Sicily has long been regarded as Italy`s ball to kick and geographically its position at the toe of the mainlands boot has inspired many jokes at its expense. Despite its stunning countryside and beachside gems high unemployment, decaying cities, poverty and organised crime are hardly attractive for visitors. Compounded with this is the complete lack of tourist services and spoken English, trains and buses that rarely run on time or often never show up, and the seeming indifference to all the above by the locals. In summary, Sicily is hardly geared for tourism. It is also not somewhere the rest of Italy wants to be mixed up in, even though Sicilians remain suspicious of the northern ruling body in Rome. But Sicily actually has a lot to throw back into the ball park. There aren`t many places in the world you can ski and then hit the beach afterwards for a refreshing dip enjoy temperate climates year round go to markets with the most astounding array of seafood see Greek, Roman, Etruscan, medieval and Arabic architecture all in the one town and meet some of the friendliest people in the world who actually are not indifferent at all. If you can adapt a little flexibility into your timetable you will find Sicily`s treasures are best discovered unplanned and unhurried. After all this is the Sicilian way of life and it`s far enough off the beaten track to attract like minded tourists who wouldn`t have it any other way. The first thing to do when you arrive is to throw your schedule out the train window, which is probably the worlds slowest or latest. I`ve had waits of four hours for connecting trains, only to find the previous train was two hours late and was waiting on the platform. Obviously this does not always work in your favour. The most astonishing thing is no one minds. In London people perform exquisite facial and verbal contortions if they miss a metro or it`s late, even though another comes minutes later. In Sicily no one batters an eyelid and there might not even be another train. The secret to surviving travel is to wait in the station bar with everyone else. A bell will ring to signal an incoming train so you have time to finish your drink and stagger to the platform. It`s good to see they`ve got their priorities right. By the time you`re on the train you`ve probably made a few friends anyway. It`s the same on the buses. No one just gets on a bus and sits down. They greet everyone with veracious "Buon giorno`s". In museums you will spend more time in the entrance hut drinking coffee with the guards. It`s a place full of chattering noise and goodwill. Quite a contrast to images tourists have of Mafia threats hanging over peoples heads making them too afraid to even look at each other. Not so. Sure enough there are seedy types and quiet streets best left alone, but the Mafia are hardly concerned with God fearing tourists. Even if you pick out a potential Mafia type, it is more likely to be somone who had too much wine at lunch, woke up cranky from siesta or is just your average Sicilian grandfather all of whom on closer acquaintance are the friendliest of blokes. Tourist information is the same. At first it seems a contradiction of terms but chances are they hardly speak English (not like other countries where they just pretend they don`t), there aren`t services available and tourism is not considered important anyway. There is an almost Arabic "en shallah" (God willing) feeling about everything, no doubt left from these previous occupants. Even the men are not as difficult as they first appear. Apart from avoiding a young man who followed me on his motorcycle and a train porter who wanted to exchange pleasantries in the dark, harassment is low key and easily dissuaded. The extent of it usually will come from old men who want to take you out for pizza. The fishermen, who spend more time fixing their nets than actually fishing, are wonderful old souls and in the markets they will even give you free taste tests of their products. You know there is nothing in this gesture, particularly when they feed you the innards of fleshy sea animals that looks suspiciously like orange maggots. But to be on the safe side wear a wedding ring and don`t accept any invitations or presents. Sicilian towns have an uncanny way of blending architectural and cultural influences. Medieval, Greek, Roman, Gothic, Arabic and even Catalan buildings and ways of life stand side by side. It`s both impressive and confusing. The bigger towns have all the mod cons with shopping centres, internet cafes and banks. But they all look slightly run down. It would be easy to blame their decaying condition on the polluting affects of Mt Etna`s volcanising smoke or on age, but the streaks on the outside have to be dirt. There is rubbish in the streets, an enormous population of scabby dogs and ferral cats and an equal number of shabby balconies overwhelmed with flapping laundry. But Sicily has a way of making you forget the worst and it`s usually an interaction with a Sicilian. The woman who ran my hotel was the only reason I stayed in the decrepit, paint peeling haven of Hotel Moderna opposite the Taormina railway station. The place was so old they had a wood fire to heat the water system. Pina, was your stereotypical Italian grandmother. She had bustly legs, an ample bosom and spoke no English. This never phased her attempts at communication. She talked in streams of words ending in "o" and didn`t mind if I couldn`t understand. She cooked us meals in a tiny kitchen and usually had an army of grand children roughing up on the couch. It was like being at home. I came back early at night just to see her. Every night she would tell me the same thing, at least I think it`s what she said. She would encourage me to use the hot water as if it were a phenomenon that may never occur again. It seemed to sum up Sicily pretty well. SOME PLACES TO VISIT
Sicily contains such a mixture of architectural and cultural influences it`s easy to confuse where you are. Medieval battlements and mosaics adorn some parts of the town, next to buildings with mosque turrets of Arab vain, Roman or Greek theatres and the modern Italian apartment blocks with potted flowers and endless washing on the balconies. Leave room for flexibility in your schedule but try to see some of the following places. Mt Etna is a highlight and at least one day should be devoted to it. This is Europes largest active volcano and eruptions occur frequently. It is no longer possible to climb to the craters but the skiing is good and there are smaller more safer craters near the tourist centre. Siracusa (Syracuse) was once a powerful Greek city and its archaeological park and the island of Ortygia are its two main attractions. Ortygia has medieval, Baroque, Gothic, Catalan and Arabic influences in its many fascinating buildings. The waterfront walks are spectacular. Cefalu is a quiet fishing village with a wonderful harbour, dozing old men and young hoons on Vespas trying to scare the cat population and impress the girls at the same time. It has a beautiful church and piazza. Taormina is set on a hill above the coast and is generally a destination for wealthy tourists. The streets are full of tourist fare - lace umbrellas, puppeted knights and ceramic plates. But the mixture of architectural influences is spectacular and its location makes it one of Sicily`s most picturesque towns. The Greek theatre built in the 3rd century BC has a fantastic view of Etna and the sea. To view it from above climb Castelmola. The capital Palermo with its wide streets, fantastic markets and decaying buildings is both seedy and impressive. It`s busy and chaotic but there are many eye catching fountains, piazzas, churches and palaces to see. Trapani and Erice in western Sicily, the islands off the coast, and Agrigento`s Valley of Greek temples are also beautiful. GETTING THERE
Internal flights and ones from major European cities land at Palermo and Catania. Buses run to Palermo from Rome and there are direct trains from Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples and Reggio di Calabria to provinical Sicilian capitals. Ferries depart from Genova, Livorno, Naples and Cagliari and from Malta and Tunisia. WHEN TO GO
Like most places in Europe between seasons is best in Sicily. Saying summer is hot is an understatement and the dense crowds are hardly peaceful. Winters are mild but many services close or have irregular hours but you would have the beaches and most places to yourself. SAFETY
For all the reports about the dangers of travelling in Sicily it`s pretty safe. However cautious behaviour is best observed and women should learn a few tricks. Wear a wedding band or engagement ring, never admit you are alone, don`t accept invitations for drinks or dinner and don`t wander about after dark or in lonely places. BOOK HERE |
