Romancing Rome
By Joanne Lane There is no better feeling than arriving in Rome. It`s warm, sunny, relaxed and full of mama`s best food. The kind of place you want to sit down and soak up the rays, shake off working blues, wander around with an open mouthed gape at the ancient monuments and fill up on your quota of cappuccino`s for the rest of the year. It`s an entertaining place, not only for all its monuments, but because modern day Romans still think it is the centre of the world. They drive fast, talk fast and eat fast are constantly in and out of love, gesturing wildly and seem completely oblivious to the worlds most famous civilisation right there behind them. It`s fantastic. They shout at customers in the post office if the address details on envelopes are slightly incorrect and spit venomously into other peoples faces if they are bumped accidentally. But within seconds they are chatting and smiling as though nothing had happened. You can`t help but marvel at their up front behaviour. The same can be said for Italian men. It`s all harmless enough but most female tourists will at some time be greeted in Rome with at least kissing noises and "bella ragazza" (beautiful girl). This behaviour is not only limited to the hordes of young men hunting the streets together at night. The older men are just as guilty. Romans also seem indifferent to rules. Most complain there are just too many to follow them all, but no one indicates when they drive and it is not unusual to see cars straddling lanes, driving through red lights or parking haphazardly. Yet there are very few accidents or even dinted fenders. Unfortunately this attitude also seems to apply to the upkeep of their ancient ruins. Perhaps we should be marvelling that as much remains today than at any architectural genius. In the early 1990s Italy spent US $200 million a year on maintenance and restoration of their treasures - less than 0.2 percent of the national budget. As a result two thirds of the nation`s treasures remain under lock and key. Others are decaying due to inattention. In 1990 eighty per cent of all European art thefts occurred in Italy. In 1989 alone almost 13,000 artworks were taken from museums and churches and 90,000 were missing. This attitude is not a modern day phenomenon. For a thousand years the baths, temples and monuments we admire so much today were regarded as quarries. Architects, builders and more often than not, the Catholic Church stripped, removed and destroyed at will, particularly when it was considered pagan. In the Foro Romano there are deep cuts at the tops of the columns where it was attempted to pull them down. When Bernini needed bronze it was stripped from the roof of the Pantheon. Mussolini rode his tanks down the Via dei Fori Imperiali destroying whatever was in his way simply because it was that - in his way. It is widely reported that the damage to the Colosseum was caused by an earthquake that rocked the foundations on a side built on marshy ground. But for hundreds of years people were carting bits off to lime kilns to turn it into cement. But other reports claim the foundations of Roman ruins are more threatened by traffic and pollution than natural decay. So it probably won`t be an earthquake that brings down the next section of the Colosseum. Having said this, there is still a wealth of treasures in Rome and the museums are well presented. And the best way to see them is to walk until your feet steam. There is always another cafe or pastry shop just around the corner to recover in, but the historical centre is quite small, even though it was the centre of the universe. Sightseeing in Rome is a fantastic blend of legend, wonderful art and gore. It is possible to hide your fascination with the macabre behind an interest in old buildings and a lot of dust. You can still see the site where bloody gladiator combats took place and where more people died per square inch or centimetre than in Nazi concentration camps - the distinct difference being that gladiator combats spanned four centuries. You can also see the site where Julius Caesar was killed in the Foro Romano (Roman Forum) nearby. His body was burned here and women gave jewels and men robes for his pyre. It`s also fun to find that some of the sayings, like "All roads lead to Rome" actually have a historical basis. This particular saying relates to the umbilicus urbis, a circular base stone from which all distances in the empire were measured. It can be found in the Roman Forum which was the commercial, political and religious centre of Ancient Rome for over 900 years. But the most impressive monument in all Rome is no doubt the Colosseum. A viewing facility that puts many modern day complexes to shame. Within 10-20 minutes this 80,000 capacity could be filled or emptied and thus it earnt its nickname that translates to purging or vomiting, because that`s what it looked like when people streamed out at the end of the day. Or perhaps the sight of so much blood may have affected some of the weaker stomached spectators. Other famed monments include the Tempio di Vesta in the Forum, where Virgins tended the sacred flame. Legend had it that if the flame went out, Rome would fall. The Virgins also played a role in the gladiator combats where they reserved the right to save a mans life. But they also had to guard against threats to their own lives. If they compromised their innocence they could be buried alive and one Emperor enjoyed seducing them and then accusing them publicly via divine revelation. But Rome is also full of many tales and traditions. And if you have not had time to see all the sights, sample the gelati and taste other culinary delights, then it`s a good idea to go to the Trevi Fountain where you can toss a coin over your shoulder to ensure you come back again. OTHER THINGS TO DO
The beautiful Sistine Chapel is home to many wonderful artworks, not withstanding the incredible Sistine Chapel and the frescoes on the walls and ceilings. By all means admire Michelangelo`s artwork but take time to look at his Last Judgement scene more carefully. Painted into the scene are depictions of the deaths of four men. Nearby is St Peters Basilica where the Pope some times comes to read Mass. The Pantheon, the Piazza de Spagna and the Spanish steps are also some of Rome`s major sights.
Outside Rome itself is the port city of Ostia Antica and the ruins here are similar to those of Pompeii. Tivoli, set on a hill, was a Roman resort town. It is famous for its terraced gardens, fountain and the ruins of the Villa Adriana, built by Roman Emperor Hadrian. GETTING THERE
International flights arrive regularly in Rome. Contact your travel agent for details. Intercity buses arrive and depart from Piazzale Tiburtina, as do Europe connections. From Stazione Termini there are frequent train services to all major cities in Italy and Europe. WHEN TO GO
The best time is the off season from April to June and September to October when the weather is still good, prices are lower and there are fewer tourists. BOOK HERE |
