Circumnavigating Mount Etna by train
by Joanne Lane The best place to view a volcano and still explore it must be from the safety of a train - but the one I`m in has only one carriage and I can`t say it`d be much protection from an unexpected eruption. It is also kind of scary to be told that part of the track has been engulfed by lava and is no longer there - for that section you take a bus. Nonetheless circumnavigating Mt Etna in Sicily by train is certainly fun and rivals the last time I climbed one of the craters years ago with an American friend notable for his sandwiches. We almost got stuck in a snowstorm on the way down. Since then I`ve wised up on Etna and realised volcano`s are not to be taken lightly at any time. A volcano is a volcano is always a volcano. Mt Etna also has some interesting history attached. For those who`ve spent time anywhere in Sicily they will have become acquainted with the ice drink granita which comes in flavours of chocolate, lemon, strawberry and others. One of the supposed origins of the drink are from Roman times when nobles had their servants bring down ice from the mountain to flavour and drink. Hence the drink is predominantly found in the region around the mountain. The circumetnea train journey begins on the northern part of Via Etnea in Catania (Corso delle Province 13) through the outer suburbs of the city. The first glimpses of Etna are within a few minutes of departure - a spectre that dominates the entire journey. The train stops frequently and is full of locals and some tourists. It`s a one gauge line only of 105 years, established in 1895. The line follows the base of the volcano. It is surprisingly fertile in parts with citrus plantations, vines and nut trees, but it also passes the strewn lava of recent eruptions. The first part of the route leaves Catania from Borgo station, stops at Misterbianco, and then passes through citrus and olive groves to Paterno where you can see Etna`s southern slopes. Paterno is a busy town in the valley of the River Simeto. There is a 13th Century medieval castle at the end of the main street. It was founded by Count Roger in 1073 and was used by the Germans in WWII. There`s a great view from the terrace at the top. The Museo di Sistero inside the castle is definitely worth a visit and free to visitors. It`s open 9.15-1pm in summer from Monday to Saturday. Back on the train and ten kilometres further down the line is Biancavilla. This town was founded by Albanians in 1480 and is an orange growing area. Small side roads run up through the orchards to the south-western slopes of Etna. If you`re short on time however Adrano is a more interesting stop. It was built over the site of ancient Adranon, a town founded by Dionysius the Elder. You can still see the Greek lava-built walls in town although there are many other later fortifications. Adrano`s squat, solid castello was also built by Count Roger. It houses a small museum (open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 4-7pm, admission free). Inside are finds from local sites, including early Bronze Age pottery. Next to the castle is Chiesa Madre. Make sure you note the 16th Century panels in the transepts. The old centre of town features shady gardens, faded churches, bars and rustic restaurants. The route from Adrano to Bronte is amongst the most scenic of the journey as the line climbs closer to the lava flows. Bronte is halfway along the route between Catania and Riposto. The faded town was founded by Charles V in 1535. The numerous battlemented and pointed belfries on the churches are all original. Today Bronte is the centre of Italy`s pistachio-nut production, producing 85 per cent of the country`s output. The plantations lie around the town and are harvested in the early autumn of odd numbered years. Buses leave Bronte for the Sicilian interior including Cesaro. After Bronte the rail line leaves the pistachio area and gives way to walnuts and chestnuts. The train also passes the huge lava flow of 1823 that almost destroyed the town. Further on is Maletto, the highest point on the line. A minor road from Maletto leads west to the Castello Maniace. The Castello was founded originally as a convent in 1174 on the site of a victory over the Arabs. An earthquake in 1693 destroyed much of the building but the estate was given to Lord Nelson as part of his dukedom. Nelson never visited his Sicilian estate but his family only relinquished control of the property in 1978 and it now belongs to the comune. Inside the Castello is a 13th Century chapel with historical accounts of the castle, also in English. The floors are tiled and restored to their original pattern. However there is Englishness apparent in the gardens and the house (open daily 9am-1pm & 2.30-7pm, Euro 2.60). As you near Randazzo ask the conductor if you can join the driver in the front compartment for the best views of this terrain, that is if they haven`t asked you already. Randazzo is the closest town to the volcano`s summit - a fact clearly visible in the town`s buildings that are built entirely of lava. Despite the proximity to the volcano it has never been engulfed although the lava flow from 1981 came perilously close. The Germans used Randazzo as one of the main forward positions during their defence of Sicily in 1943. Much of the town was heavily bombed but has been restored over the years since. In medieval times Randazzo`s three churches took turns to act as the cathedral. Today the largest of the three, Santa Maria, in Via Umberto I, is the sole title holder. It`s a severe Catalan-Gothic structure incorporating chunks of volcanic rock and a fine carved portal with vine decoration. In the interior are black lava columns - one serves as the altar. All that remains of Randazzo`s castle is a blackened tower across the square that forms part of the old city walls. It was the prison until just 25 years ago. Now it houses the Museo Vagliasindi, (open 9am-1pm & 3-8pm, Euro 1.60). It has a collection of objects from a nearby fifth to second century BC Greek necropolis. Objects on display include Sicilian puppets, sporting armour, velvet cloaks and wine jugs. If you want to end the journey here SAIS buses connect Randazzo with Taormina/Giardini-Naxos twice daily. Further east from Randazzo the lava flows are clearly visible and the views of Etna are spectacular as the line passes within 15km of the summit. The line passes through Castiglione di Sicilia and into Linguaglossa. This is the main tourist centre on Etna`s northern slopes. It is quiet during the summer, whereas in the winter it`s a busy ski centre. Currently the line ends at Linguaglossa while repairs are being made to a bridge. A bus at the station connects passengers to Giare and the FS line back to Catania. For more information contact the Ferrovia Circumetnea (%% 095-541-246). CIRCUMETNEA DETAILS
Departures are quite regular on the cirumetnea but if you want to stop off along the way and get connecting trains you need to start quite early in the day. To get there take bus 628, 448 or 401 from the main train station in Catania to Corso delle Province 13 (%% 095-374-842) opposite Corso Italia. Alternatively you can use the Metropolitana to Borgo or simply walk up Via Etnea, verge right at the division in the road until you get to the miniature station with its friendly and helpful guards. Make sure you stop at the tourist office to pick up some complimentary postcards and maps. To get to Riposto, at the other end, take a train or bus from Taormina. A round ticket costs just Euro 5.50 to Giare, although you then pay the return to Catania. It takes only 3 and a half hours (without stops) to Riposto where you can join the main train line and make it back to Catania the same day. If you want to stop somewhere along the route for the night you should ring ahead to book your accommodation. WHEN TO GO
There is no real bad time to visit Sicily as the climate is mild due to its location. However during the summer months, easter and the christmas/new year period there are hiked up prices and you`d be best to avoid the island at this time. Winters can be wet but are generally a lot warmer than anywhere in mainland Italy. The absolute best months are those either side of summer. April-June and September-November. GETTING TO SICILY
Sicily is not serviced by any major international carriers however it is possible to get onward flights in major centres like Naples, Milan and Rome. Alternatively there are bus and train services from northern Italy but as the journey is long you need both the time and patience! Stopping off at places on the way to Sicily is the best way to break the journey. WHERE TO STAY
If you want to visit the mountain and have no public transport you would be best to stay in one of the towns nearby. Taormina and Catania are both within striking distance of the volcano and offer lots of places to stay. Taormina is more resort-like and therefore more expensive. There are some budget accommodation options in both however with two youth hostels in Taormina and one in Catania. There are tours from both centres to the volcano. The circumnavigating train begins its journey in Catania but Taormina and Catania are connected by bus and the FS train service. BOOK HERE |
