Hunting in Italy
By Joanne Lane Twenty men are sitting at a long table under the trees with guns and ammunition ready. They smoke cigars and laugh, smiles creasing unshaven faces, the smoke curling around their camoflauge gear. The scene seems fitting for a Cuban revolutionary group and hardly a group of Italian Tuscan wine growers having a lunch break. Actually today they are no longer wine growers, they are hunters, "cacciatore". Most people associate Tuscany with wine, olives, rolling hills, villas and cyprus trees. So most would be surprised to find that hunting is actually just as big a pass time. Throughout September, October and into November, men with dogs are seen flitting through the hills in search of game. They live and breathe for the season. There are parties, celebrations, and much discussion and excitement. This being one of them. At table nearby their wives, mothers and children prepare the hunting feast. Slain pigeons, rabbit, hare, pheasants, sometimes deer and anything else that moves through the hills. Some barbecued, others mixed in with pasta, all delicious. It`s the only time of year the men willingly rise before dawn or spend sleepless nights guarding prime positions on special hunting days. Dogs accompany them to ferret out the animals or bring in the catch. In the winter special dogs are used to hunt for tartuffi, a rare kind of mushroom found in forest areas. The property here in Certaldo (about 40 minutes from Florence) is owned by Francesco Martini, a Sicilian who came north and settled here. His three children, Stefano, Giuseppina and Antonello are all married and are wine growers. He is the life of the table, sitting at the head and rising to tell his hunting stories. Stefano is married to Katyuscia who sits next to me but close enough to keep an eye on how much Stefano consumes. She says he is supposed to be on a diet. Throughout the year Stefano produces Chianti and other local wines, does wine tastings for foreigners, runs his farm etc. But none of this impedes on his real passion, hunting - wild game and mushrooms. For the mushrooms he uses his dog Dolly. These activities are purely recreational. They don`t sell the game or the mushrooms. Stefano`s cousin Gianpiero is a commercial driver with three small children all under the age of six. His dog Cicio is an active part of the hunt, fetching the dead birds and described as a natural at the act. Gianpiero is also a natural in front of the camera, laughing continually, posing and showing off. I join Stefano and Gianpiero one morning on the first day of the hunting season. It is a restricted hunt and they are only allowed to shoot what flies overhead. They have built a hut in the vineyards so it is covered and camoflagued. They are in full camofluage gear and I have also dressed in green. Katyuscia and I come bearing food and refreshments. They slept here all night to guard their position and did not have breakfast. During much laughter and chatter, most of it at my expense, they shoot at the birds passing, send the dog out to fetch them and eat the food we`ve brought. The pellets are huge but their accuracy is pretty high. After all they`ve been brought up doing this. And they are flattered to have me along. Katyuscia lays out the birds for me to photograph moaning quietly for the life of each one. Giuseppina`s husband Luigi is a house builder and a lone hunter. When Katyusica returns me to Giuseppina we go in search for him, hunting through the sunflower fields, vineyards and asking other hunters we find on the way. Eventually we discover him in a small field by another camofluage hut. He has put seed on the backs of the sunflowers to coaxe down the wild birds. And with a stroke of ingenuity tied live birds to wooden stakes with a rope attached that he twigs every now and then so they shake their feathers to regain balance. He says the action should attract fellow birds. We survey his bag. About 5 dead pigeons. He is thirsty and rebukes us for not bringing him water. He only lets me take pictures if I promise to send him a drink. Giuseppina gives him a friendly poke. She is a chef, specialising in medieval, Tuscan, Florentine and other types of Italian cooking. Most Italians are passionate about their food but she is even more so, dishing up aromatic dishes with a huge smile and encouraging everyone to eat, "Ragazzi, ragazzi, mangia!" (People, people, eat!) She married Luigi at 19 and has been married 20 years. Time to produce two sons whom she is endlessly cooking for. The hunting season provides her with the opportunity to try some traditional Tuscan cooking. And it`s a feast. Luigi puts the hunting dogs away, the men appear with their kills hanging hares from fingers, they take off their ammunition belts, cigarettes appear, the food disappears, there are stories and anecdotes throughout the siesta hours. We sit at the other end watching them, amused but spectators only. As the afternoon wanes, the food is cleared away, the men adjust their belts, gather their guns, collect their dogs and disappear like ghosts into the vineyards until the next hunting day. WHEN TO GO
The hunting season starts in September and runs through to November. Tartuffi hunting takes place in December. For visitors to Tuscany the best months are from April through to October, although the summers particularly August are hot and there can be many tourists in the busy centres. WHERE TO STAY
For those wishing to stay in Certaldo, a wine growing region the Fattoria del Bassetto is the best option, a former Benedictine monastery and now a travellers lodge. There are dorm and private rooms in the old buildings. Bookings are essential. Contact info@bassettobackpack.com or see their website www.bassettobackpack.com During the year Stefano and his family run a wine tasting in English at the Bassetto premises. His family can be contacted through Bassetto. HOW TO GET THERE
Certaldo can be reached by train on the line between Siena and Florence. Fattoria del Bassetto picks up guests from the train station. OTHER THINGS TO DO
Siena, Florence, Pisa, Lucca and San Gimignano are all within a days travel from Certaldo, making it a perfect central location for seeing the region. Bike riding, horse riding, walking, historical tours and vineyard visits are all possible. BOOK HERE |
