Cinque Terre - a Walk Through Italy
By Joanne Lane The famed Cinque Terre, or five towns, on the western coast of Italy are beautiful but they can be far from trouble free. Although the week we arrived may not have been the usual - one day police escorted a backpacker from his abode for not paying a bill, a tourist drowned in one of the harbours and the one hostel in the region had more rules than you could poke a stick at because of obnoxious guests. The sad thing about all these disturbances are they are the result of foreigners or "stranieri" in these five little hamlets by the sea and not the locals who seem caught in the conflicting desire of keeping their towns as is while opening them to profitable business. And the Cinque Terre are business. Fishing and wine cultivation have been the major sources of income here but tourism is now playing a big role, especially the famed walk between the five coastal towns. These fishing villages clutter the coves perched on ridges or hidden in ravines. They are full of narrow stone alleyways, Genovese style churches, small markets, fishing boats, gelatarias and tourists. Its charming, quaint and timeless and tourists love it. And whether the locals like it or not, tourism is flowing money into their pockets. Most of the older people are content to sit back in the afternoon sun with their canes, chatting to friends they`ve known since childhood and eyeing the backpackers and sweating walkers as they pass. It`s not that they are unfriendly but they seem happy in their traditions and village life and intermingle with tourists very little. They wait outside the church for the priest to start mass - although if he didn`t come they would know every word to conduct it themselves, fish in the harbours and hang washing and flower pots from balconies. It`s almost like they think nothing can ever change. And until recently it didn`t, the only thing connecting these towns to the outside world were the coast paths and boats until a road was cut through the terraced hillsides. The roads still do not reach everywhere and people are reliant on the network of paths that cross the hills, olive groves and vineyards. No cars are allowed to drive through the towns except the public bus that stops to pick up the priest wherever he goes, and the fish seller who drives in a van calling out his wares like a Muslim iman (priest). But development is coming. A train line now links the coastal towns, and the famous walk from Riomaggiore, Via dell`Amore to Monterosso of some 3-5 hours has become well trodden. So much so that it seems plagued at some times of the day with an overabundance of Germans with long swinging walking poles that stab at your feet as you walk past, and slow elderely groups who would probably perish along the way if it were not for the promise of gelato or a cappuccino in the next town. But for early rises the tracks are relatively free and the results achieved by man in a geological setting not really designed for cultivation are impressive. Man has had to work hard to hew out a living here. Dry walling terraced vineyards and olive groves run down to the jewelled Mediterranean, villas with rock or flower gardens dot the hillsides as do the Genovese style churches with their black and white facades. The Cinque Terre walk starts from Riomaggiore along the Via dell`Amore (lovers pathway) cut out of the coastal rock as far as Manarolla (30 minutes). In Riomaggiore houses slither down a ravine that forms the main street, tiny fishing boats line the shore and are stacked in the small square. Manarola is a smaller town with a lovely fishing harbour with boats and nets lining the walkways, where on a clear day you can see all the villages. On religious holidays the hillsides around Manarola glow with illuminated crosses, shepherds, saints and religious scenes. The story goes that a local artist Mario Andreoli became confined to a wheelchair through a rare disease but vowed if he ever improved he would dedicate his life to making crosses. His health obviously improved. Corniglia is one hour away from Manarola and perches above the sea. Houses, narrow lanes and stairways are woven in the hill and topped by a medieval lookout from where it is possible to look back to Manarola. A market is held here in the main square most days but prices are definitely meant for tourists although friendly stall owners are known to give free samples of their produce. The local women debating their fish purchases are an entertaining sight. The route continues mainly on the same level to Vernazza (1 hour 30 minutes) which clusters on a headland dominated by the tower of the Castello Belforte, and makes good use of its seafront with a promenade and piazza by the water and beach. There is a small harbour where colourful boats are moored in rows. The perfect place to sample some Italian icecream if you have not already done so. Don`t have too much as the track climbs steeply out of Vernazza but has excellent views of Corniglia and Riomaggiore. It leads to the last town, Monterosso which spreads out at sea level. Here there is a medieval Torre Aurora (The Dawn Tower) which divides the old and new part of town. The walk finishes here, although there are plenty more hill side towns that can be visited on foot. Get another gelati or treat yourself to a Cinque Terre dinner delight - plenty of seafood and locally produced wine. And if you stay long enough in this extraordinary part of Italy the shopkeepers soon start to greet you and even the old people in the squares nod their heads as you pass by. After all this is Italy, and the people on closer acquaintance are as warm and hospitable as their surrounds. OTHER THINGS TO DO
The resort town of Portofino is north of Cinque Terre and accessible by train. This is a beautiful point on the coast where ivy clad villas settle in the sunshine by quiet coves and fishing boats are the main means of transport. Accommodation is only for the rich and famous but it is an easy day trip. ACCOMMODATION
There is only one hostel at Manorola. Private rooms and hotel rooms are available for a variety of prices. If you have not booked ahead, arrive early and ask the locals for private rooms. WHEN TO GO
The climate on coastal regions is generally mild all year round. Summers are hot and busy with tourists but spring and autumn are pleasant and there are less people. HOW TO GET THERE
The Cinque Terre coast line is linked by a train system that runs by the seaside from Genoa to Livorno. It is linked from these places to junctions where you can get trains on to Florence, Siena, Rome, Milan, Venice and other places. Roads and cars are a new introduction here and wind up through the hills before ping back down to the coast. You can`t park in the towns so it is a far better option to walk or catch trains. Buses also link the towns. Ferries leave from Genoa or Livorno to Corsica, Sardignia, Naples and Sicily. BOOK HERE |
