Catania
By Joanne Lane You have to admire the Catanians. They live just below the threatening spectre of the active volcanic giant Mt Etna but continue their lives with that wonderful, casual indifference of all Sicilians. This wrathful giant sits just above the town spewing forth a profusion of dust that threatens to engulf the town. Lava streaked buildings fill the town and anything left long enough in the street will acquire a fine layer of volcanic dust. The Catanians have been quite industrious with Etna, using its slopes for skiing in winter, opening the craters to tourists and even using the volcanic rock in their building construction. This attitude is typically Sicilian, a resilient people completely unconcerned with the northern ruling body in Rome and the rest of the Italian mainland they call the "continente". Sicily is almost a separate entity and the people themselves are among the first to point it out, proud of the influences from the African nations just south of their island. Sicily is a mixture of Arabic, African and European culture and architecture which reflects the history of the island and its frequent invading powers. In Catania Baroque palaces and churches fill the streets. An eruption and earthquake destroyed the town in 1669 and 1693 and an 18th century project rebuilt the city in grand Baroque style. Now-a-days they seem rather poorly maintained but their decaying states grant a kind of faded grandeur to the streets which have become part of a busy industrial and commercial port town. No one seems too concerned about buildings heavy with decay with crumbling facades, tattered shutters and balconies that look like they are ready to come crashing down. Catania is the second largest city in Sicily and mornings and evenings you notice the crush of people. In the mornings the markets are awash with fish sellers, fruit vendors, sales people, activity and noise. There`s pirated music for sale, electronics, hair clips, nail polish, wigs, cat food, birds, bras, shorts, pants, vegetables, seafood, meats, breads, olives, grains and more besides. There are two main markets in Catania. One is the fish market La Pescheria down near the duomo, and the other is a food and miscellaneous type on Via Pacini which comes off Via Etnea. By lunch time all the action is over. Catania becomes like a ghost city in the heat of the day. The cars seem to sink beneath the volcanic dust spewed forth from the wrathful giant of Mt Etna above. The lava streaked Baroque buildings hang heavy with decay. Markets vacated after the mornings confusion are still and quiet. Once the siesta hour has finished, life slowly returns to Catania`s streets. Men come out to sweep the streets and three wheelers remove the wooden boxes from the markets. Kids play soccer wherever there`s no traffic and businesses slowly open again. In the summer the activity continues well into the evening. Much of the city closes to traffic and in central areas pubs and restaurants spill chairs and tables into the street and night time concerts are common. Via Etnea is where much of the city life happens. Here you can find air conditioned shops, Italian fashion, the latest Armani and the rest of what you come to expect in Italian cities. But around the corner and you`ll find the Italy of old - children playing soccer in the streets, flapping laundry and women calling to each other from their balconies. The main square Piazza del Duomo is at the bottom of Via Etnea. It was rebuilt in the first half of the 18th Century and surrounded by elegant buildings built largely by the architect Vaccarini. These structures include the Elephant Fountain, the town hall, the cathedral and the abbey church Badia di Sant`Agata. The duomo is Vaccarini`s grandest project. It was originally founded by Count Roger in the 11th Century but only the medeval apses crafted from volcanic rock survived the 1693 earthquake. You can see the apses through the gate at Via Vittorio Emanuele 159. Teatro Romano in Via Vittorio Emanuele is one of the Roman relics that survived the 18th century Etna eruption. It was built of lava in the second century AD on the site of an earlier Greek theatre, Teatro Greco. The seating and underground passageways have been preserved but the marble casing is long gone. Adjacent to it is the smaller Odeon which was used for music and recitations. It was built between the second and third centuries AD. Piazza Stesicoro also has an Anfiteatro Romano which you can enter and wanter for free down through the cold lava walls. It dates from the second or third century AD. Much of it is now concealed by other buildings but its lava blocks could once seat 16,000 spectators. Nearby is the 12th Century church of Sant` Agata al Carcere. The church was built on the site of the prison where St Agatha was confined before she was martyred by the Romans. You can enter the 3rd Century crypt that is lit by bright candles. Not far from here the famed street Via Crocifisso begins an interesting walk down a street lined with churches and crucifixes. For garden parks and some green in a city dominated by lava take in Via Bellini`s large public garden in the city centre. In the summer concerts take place in the bandstand. At the northern end of the park is Orto Botanico. Jonio is the closest beach to Catania. Unfortunately it can be crowded and not always pristinely clean. It`s also very popular for nightlife. For great seaside dining try San Giovanni Li Cuti only 5 minutes from Catania. WHEN TO GO
Summer in Catania is hot and heavy and full of holidaying Italians. But it is also a time for festivals and street theatres. Winter is pleasant during the day but cold at night. The best seasons are Spring and Autumn. WHERE TO STAY
There is only one hostel in Catania, L`Agora, run by an energetic and alternative crew near the fish markets by the Duomo. Budget, medium and more pricey hotels are available. The cheaper hotels are near the train station. OTHER PLACES TO VISIT
When Mt Etna is not erupting it is a lovely day trip from Catania train station by bus. Check the schedule. There is only one bus per day in early winter. In winter it is possible to ski on Etna and at other times of the year you can walk on the slopes. The beaches around Catania are an interesting mix of lava and rock. Siracusa and Taormina are an hour each way by train and are interesting seaside cities with lovely old theatres, ruins and hideaway beaches. GETTING THERE AND AWAY
Catania has an airport where connections with the mainland and European flights land. There is also a train station, see www.trenitalia.com for train schedules and details. BOOK HERE |
