The Amalfi Coast
By Joanne Lane I must be the only one on the bus who doesn't know at least the driver and about ten other people. I am not the most obvious of tourists but I guess my bag gives me away and my horrible Australian twanged attempts at Italian. But the locals are friendly and greet everyone, including me, with hearty "Buongiorno's" when they get on or off. We have passed hundreds of delightful coastal towns, perched on rocky ledges or wedged in ravines that fall straight down to the sea. I could happily have stopped in any of these towns but I am heading for Atrani on the Amalfi coast and I am suddenly conscious I will miss my stop if I don't pay attention. I start down the aisle towards the driver, hitting everyone with my bag as we sway around hairpin bends without slowing down, passing ridiculously close to the edge or to other vehicles. Before I can even open my mouth to say where I want to go, the driver tells me "la prossima, la prossima" (the next stop). We screech to a halt and I am thankful to still be alive as I get out and wave goodbye to the other passengers. The old woman getting off in front of me motions to follow her and leads me through the town of Atrani. I don't even know how to pronounce the name of the place where I am staying but she doesn't even ask and we meander past white washed houses along narrow streets right to the door of my hotel. I wonder if she is in cahoots with the hotel manager or if there aren't many places for foreigners to stay but she deposits me and departs with a quick wave. Amalfi is only a five minutes walk along the coast but where I am staying in Atrani is quieter, quainter and far more delightful anyway. I wander back through the quiet streets to a small piazza encircled by buildings. There are nice cafes and tables and I am the only customer so the friendly waiter chatters away while he prepares a panini (sandwich) and gives me free glasses of mineral water. I am starting to realise southern Italians are a friendly bunch. After lunch, and a wander along the seashore watching fishermen off the beach to Amalfi, I spend most of the afternoon drinking coffee with museum guards. Atrani is really an extension of Amalfi, one kilometre away. Amalfi was founded in the 9th century, and is credited with introducing paper, coffee and carpets to Italy through its Oriental connections. In the 11th century Amalfi was at its peak and its naval power rivalled the northern maritime republics, Pisa and Genova. This coastline is now famous throughout Italy and has become a destination for more wealthy tourists but it can cater for all budgets. Most of the coast line contains a hybrid of Arab and Norman architecture. The town of Positano, famous in the north, has more Moorish influences but in Amalfi the Duomo Sant' Andrea is an example. It is set at the top of a sweeping flight of stairs and dates from the 10th century. The piazza below is popular for wedding shoots. If you spend any length of time here on Saturdays or Sundays they roll through like clockwork. The couples pose in the square with an assorted entourage of video and still camera crews, limousine drivers and security men who stare down curious passers by, especially those who produce their own cameras. The Chiostro del Paradiso next to the church was built in the 13th century in Arabic style to house the tombs of noted citizens. Take it on good authority, the guards here are very friendly. There are also two paper mills still in operation in Amalfi, a paper museum, a selection of fine restaurants and beach side walkways. Many paths and stairways criss cross the hillsides above the coast and link the mountainside villages. On good advice from the Atrani cafe I headed on one to Ravello. The path circles through the soaring mountains and past deep ravines to the town, overlooking the seaside above Amalfi, which looks like an aqua coloured jewel below. Further north along the coast is the famous city of Pompeii, a must for any visit to this part of Italy. It is also easily accessible from Rome for day trips. This ancient city was destroyed and thus ironically preserved by the erupting Mt Vesuvius which stands ominously above it as if in permanent reminder of its role in the town. A few hours should be devoted to Pompeii and it's a good idea to buy a guide from one of the pesky sellers outside, otherwise you can wander rather hopelessly in the maze of streets. This in itself is not a waste of time and if you stay alert you can discern which was the market street, contained more well to do houses and which houses were used for bakeries. Much has survived here, including mosaics that are almost perfectly intact. These contain depictions of daily life in a Roman town. There are also statues, urns and even bodies, although most relics have been moved to the museum in Naples. But the best way to experience the Amalfi coast is to find your own patch of beach or a quiet little town, like Atrani, and wile away the hours with leisurely meals, watching the fishermen bring in their catches and taking time out to meet the locals. After a few days of this I caught a bus back to the Salerno train station. This time I did know at least ten people on board, I managed to avoid clubbing anyone with my pack and even offered a fairly Italian sounding "Buongiorno".
OTHER THINGS TO DO
The three Greek temples of Paestum are among the best preserved Greek monuments in the world. Paestum was founded in the 6th century BC by Greek settlers. Paestum is on the bus line from Salerno and on the Napoli- Salerno train line. The Isle of Capri is touristy, but its natural habitation is delightful including lush vegetation and hideaway caves. The towns are a mixture of narrow laneways and Greek, Roman and Stone Age artefacts. Ferries, hydrofoils and helicopter flights take you here from Napoli and Sorrento. It is possible to visit the craters on Mt Vesuvius, buses run from Pompeii four times daily. HOW TO GET THERE
Trains run from Rome to Naples or Sorrento. From here a bus services the coast and the time table is regular and surprisingly punctual. The closest international airport is in Napoli which has domestic flights and links to major European destinations. WHEN TO GO
The summer months from June through August are very busy and touristy. Come a little out of season and you will still get good weather and cheaper accommodation. WHERE TO STAY
Hotels, private rooms and other pensiones are also available for varying prices to suit each budget. It may be difficult to find accommodation in the busy summer months. BOOK HERE |
