Exploring the luxuries of the Loire Valley
by Joanne Lane The Loire Valley is a pretty region of fairytale like castles and immaculate gardens right out of a storybook. And in fact locations here have been used to inspire some of our favourite children's books. The history of the area is no less colourful. Basically the French nobility milked their populations to transform this area and build extravagant chateaux as love nests and status statements. There were mad Kings and dishonest Kings aplenty but they certainly left a legacy behind. Boxwood gardens, moats, towers, frescoes, acres of forest and fancy ceilings entertained weekend parties featuring a-list crowds from all over Europe. Hunting dogs teemed in kennels at Cheverny and there were horse stables at Chaumont-sur-Loire. The greatest thing about all the pleasures of this French noble playground is that it is now open to the populace. The Chateaux have been restored and are now maintained as museums in the public domain. Bike tours, walking tours, driving tours, backpackers and other tourists all take in the common delights together. The Chateaux de Chombord is the largest of the chateaux in the Loire Valley with a forest setting and 440 rooms. It was built in 1519 by King Francois I. He was dishonest with his subjects' money and even rerouted the Loire River to bring it closer to the chateaux. It took 15 years to complete and the King died before it was finished. Inside is a double-helix staircase on the outside towers, cupolas, chimneys, mosaic slate roofs and lightning rods make up the rooftop. The chateaux d'Usse sits on the edge of the forest of Chinnon and was used by Charles Perrault as his inspiration for Sleeping Beauty after he visited in the 17th century. The chateaux was built on the site of an older medieval castle and has always been private property. It is still a family home. Children can meet all the Sleeping beauty figures along the covered rampart walk. The Chateaux de Chenonceau is an easy train ride from Tours for those without transport. Some consider it the most romantic of the chateaux because of its galerie de bal that spans the River Cher like a bridge. The design was overseen by women and was used to host gala balls and famous persons. Diane de Poitiers, Catherine de'Medici and Mary Queen of Scotts are amongst those that took retreat here. Azay-le-Rideau also has a fairytale like appearance with its many turrets and moat. It was built in the early 16th century by a financier of the day and stands on a small island in the River Indre. Villandry is another beautiful chateaux but possibly just as noted today for its gardens. In fact these formal gardens are considered amongst the best in France and are supposed to represent the many faces of love. For example pink tulips and dahlias are for sweet love, red is to signify tragic love, yellow for unfaithful love and all colours for foolish love. Another garden contains all the common French vegetables. The gardeners cut and style the boxwood sculpture every September in only two weeks. The towns themselves are also of interest. Tours is the natural visitor's capital and a city of some charm. It is located between the Loire River and its tributary the Cher. French in Tours is considered the purest in the country, which unfortunately makes it no less easy to understand. There's a lot of accommodation options in Tours, it's on the train line and there are some fine buildings and museums to explore including the Touraine Wines Museum. Blois, to the north side of the Loire Valley has a charming old town and its own Chateaux de Blois. The town itself is surrounded by forests and named after the celtic name for wolf. Blois was the residence of several French Kings and is also the place where Joan of Arc came in 1429 to be blessed by the Archbishop of Reims before she departed with her army to drive the English from Orleans. In town is also the Gothic style Saint Louis Cathedral and the pretty Bishop's Garden. Amboise is another town worth a visit. The massive chateaux dominates the town. It was first part of the possessions of the counts of Anjou. It later became a possession of the Crown and a royal residence instead of a fortress. In the town is also the Clos-Luce mansion, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci who lived here from 1516 until his death three years later. You can enter the home for a fee and see some of his inventions and drawings. WHEN TO GO
The chateaux are open at all times of the year however to fully appreciate the beauty of the gardens and the region you would be best to visit between April and September. There is a fee to enter all the chateaux. GETTING AROUND
The chateaux are located at varying points around the Loire Valley. You could rent a bike to ride between them during the summer months or consider one of the local tours organised by the tourist office in Tours. There are also walking tours and bike tours in the region. GETTING THERE
Tours and other towns in the Loire Valley are reachable by train. See the French rail site www.sncf.com for information on services. BOOK HERE |
